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What did you do to your Blackwing today?

Most definitely will for the rest of my ICE-driving life. It's a complicated job you know, putting the same number of quarts that it says on the sheet and (actually, "or"!) checking the dipstick. WTF. It's only a $100k car.

Just talked to the service advisor and I'm trying to get them to cover a GM extended warranty. I know it's "probably" okay but I have a sick feeling in my stomach about a car I waited 14 months for, and was intending to keep indefinitely.
Absolutely push for the extended warranty seven years hundred thousand miles screw them to the bank I know i’d try!
 
Most definitely will for the rest of my ICE-driving life. It's a complicated job you know, putting the same number of quarts that it says on the sheet and (actually, "or"!) checking the dipstick. WTF. It's only a $100k car.

Just talked to the service advisor and I'm trying to get them to cover a GM extended warranty. I know it's "probably" okay but I have a sick feeling in my stomach about a car I waited 14 months for, and was intending to keep indefinitely.
At the very least they need to complete a new oil change. There is no telling what grade of oil you have in there.
 
Yeah, it was a wet winter and it makes sense that section of 180 that twists through the small canyon would have let some rocks loose. Hasnt rained in over a month though so Im hoping its clear sailing.
Just sayin, don't let your guard down for even one second. It's easy to do on long drives.
 
They're OEM but I painted them myself. I started with two coats of Black Raven (WA 8555). That was to match the color of the V badges which I got from Savage (Oliver told me they use black raven). After that, I just ran a bead of caulk over the front to fill in the letters and wiped away excess with damp sponge. Had to hit it with a second coat of caulk after the first coat dried to really make the letters flush. Finally, hit it with two coats of GM clear coat.

For the caulk, I just used DAP exterior siding and door in light gray color to match the gray/off-white stripe in V flag.

It was a bit involved, but worth it since I wasn't keen on the 0fx2gv pieces for the exact reason that you stated. The only thing I would do different next time is put a down a layer of clear coat before doing the caulk. While the caulk came off cleanly with the damp sponge, it did leave a very thin layer on the black raven that dulled it slightly. The clear coat might help prevent that but not entirely sure.
Looking good! Letters came out nice!
 
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Who the hell knows. The repair order even shows 10 quarts and 9 used... obviously that means nothing.

The worst part is even here in the middle of the SF Bay Area, this is the closest (still 25min drive) and best-rated dealer. I guess I'm gonna have to go back to crawling under my new 6-figure car to do my own oil changes since a tech who does this every day can't be bothered to think whether 5-6 quarts can feed a giant S/C V8.
Ok please share who the dealer is. I live in the Bay Area and am now terrified.
 
Spotted a GR Corolla Morizo edition on a truck on the commute with the Blackwing. Another GR Corolla with it. Supposedly only 200 Morizos coming to states.
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Most definitely will for the rest of my ICE-driving life. It's a complicated job you know, putting the same number of quarts that it says on the sheet and (actually, "or"!) checking the dipstick. WTF. It's only a $100k car.

Just talked to the service advisor and I'm trying to get them to cover a GM extended warranty. I know it's "probably" okay but I have a sick feeling in my stomach about a car I waited 14 months for, and was intending to keep indefinitely.
The oil light is never going to come on if it's 1-2 qts low on 10qt fill so I knew that it was way lower. The good news is if it's 5-6 than you will be just fine the other 4qts are purely for tracking and temperatures so your fine imo. The other good news is they should know that and have ZERO ISSSUES on extended warranty because it's not going to cost them either.
 
The oil light is never going to come on if it's 1-2 qts low on 10qt fill so I knew that it was way lower. The good news is if it's 5-6 than you will be just fine the other 4qts are purely for tracking and temperatures so your fine imo. The other good news is they should know that and have ZERO ISSSUES on extended warranty because it's not going to cost them either.
Interesting perspective - seems to sort of make sense but I'm not an expert on oil systems. Is this really the case?

I will say I loosely keep an eye on oil temps in general (so I take it easy until it reaches a good temp) and didn't notice anything different on the way home yesterday. I have oil pressure right below that in the cluster, and while I don't monitor that as closely, I feel like I would have noticed if the pressure was unusually low.

On the warranty, I don't think the dealer will think of it that way, because they would probably pay GM for the extended warranty, and GM would probably pay them for any warranty work.
 
Interesting perspective - seems to sort of make sense but I'm not an expert on oil systems. Is this really the case?

I will say I loosely keep an eye on oil temps in general (so I take it easy until it reaches a good temp) and didn't notice anything different on the way home yesterday. I have oil pressure right below that in the cluster, and while I don't monitor that as closely, I feel like I would have noticed if the pressure was unusually low.

On the warranty, I don't think the dealer will think of it that way, because they would probably pay GM for the extended warranty, and GM would probably pay them for any warranty work.
If they don't cooperate on the warranty request, I'd get an attorney involved and put the dealership on notice this isn't going away quietly...
 
Interesting perspective - seems to sort of make sense but I'm not an expert on oil systems. Is this really the case?

I will say I loosely keep an eye on oil temps in general (so I take it easy until it reaches a good temp) and didn't notice anything different on the way home yesterday. I have oil pressure right below that in the cluster, and while I don't monitor that as closely, I feel like I would have noticed if the pressure was unusually low.

On the warranty, I don't think the dealer will think of it that way, because they would probably pay GM for the extended warranty, and GM would probably pay them for any warranty work.
Yes, I would guess that the cost the dealership pays for that extended warranty is not close as to what you and I would pay either. I would politely push for this myself and explain that obviously I have ZERO trust in your service dept and would like to continue my relationship here knowing that I AM 100% covered from whatever next your "trained Technicians do" The main thing is to get that vin# tied into a longer coverage period and you can do whatever after that is set in stone. Sorry you have to deal with this...
 
I would bring my 2014 Dodge Challenger into the local dealer for oil/filter change. I have a bit of chrome bling in the engine bay. On my way home after a service, I see some smoke coming from under the hood. The service tech had apparently spilled some motor oil all down the side of the engine and all over my chrome. Stevie Wonder would have seen it and cleaned it up ! Now when I go, I put a bunch of those blue shop paper towels around the filler cap area. Sends them a message.
 

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Interesting perspective - seems to sort of make sense but I'm not an expert on oil systems. Is this really the case?

I will say I loosely keep an eye on oil temps in general (so I take it easy until it reaches a good temp) and didn't notice anything different on the way home yesterday. I have oil pressure right below that in the cluster, and while I don't monitor that as closely, I feel like I would have noticed if the pressure was unusually low.

On the warranty, I don't think the dealer will think of it that way, because they would probably pay GM for the extended warranty, and GM would probably pay them for any warranty work.
Do you know what weight oil they filled it with? If they filled it too low, because they didn't realize it was a Blackwing, they may have used the wrong oil. Even if what they just added was the correct 0W-40 stuff, what about the other 5-6 quarts that the lube tech originally put in?
 
I thought mechanics who work on our cars were supposed to be certified? You'd think oil change was a basic lesson?
 
2300mi on the clock and swapped the rear diff fluid out today in anticipation of taking a rip on my favorite motorcycle route thru a remote area of eastern AZ later this week. At 6-7k'+ in elevation I dont expect to get anywhere near 100% out of the car but Im sure that will still be more than adequate for a grin or two.

I did that last year when I had my 4BW. It's a great, fun road to go on. Watch for rocks AND deer. Hit a small rock and was surprised nothing happened, and just missed a deer running across the road.

I highly recommend running the Coronado Hwy to anyone who might be out that way. Route 191 from Three Way all the way to Alpine or Springerville
 
Welp, the tech added 3.5 quarts (to the 1 quart I added last night) to get it up to full. So they must have literally used the normal CT5-V non-Blackwing amount (5-6 quarts).

I am absolutely livid, worried, fill in the blank.
Since a 5BW takes 9 quarts, the 3.5 + your 1 means that they only put in 4.5 qts! As long as you had oil pressure and reg oil temps, you probably should be ok. But, crazy to know a 5BW LT4 can run on 1/2 oil charge.
Since I’m not an officially certified GM tech, I use a simple dinosaur method (can you spot it) when I change my oil to remind my old mind how much I have installed, 😁
I also photograph from draining to filling including picture of the drip stick oil line, to reduce chances of warranty denial. 98, best of luck on your outcome 👍
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Since a 5BW takes 9 quarts, the 3.5 + your 1 means that they only put in 4.5 qts! As long as you had oil pressure and reg oil temps, you probably should be ok. But, crazy to know a 5BW LT4 can run on 1/2 oil charge.
Since I’m not an officially certified GM tech, I use a simple dinosaur method (can you spot it) when I change my oil to remind my old mind how much I have installed, 😁
I also photograph from draining to filling including picture of the drip stick oil line, to reduce chances of warranty denial. 98, best of luck on your outcome 👍
What's interesting is I drove the 16mi home over 25min (mostly highway) and the car didn't give me a warning about oil level (and as I mentioned, I was keeping a loose eye on oil temp which seemed normal, and nothing about the pressure caught my eye though I wasn't specifically looking at it). It was only a couple hours later when I went out again that the car flashed a "Low Oil Level" warning.
 
What's interesting is I drove the 16mi home over 25min (mostly highway) and the car didn't give me a warning about oil level (and as I mentioned, I was keeping a loose eye on oil temp which seemed normal, and nothing about the pressure caught my eye though I wasn't specifically looking at it). It was only a couple hours later when I went out again that the car flashed a "Low Oil Level" warning.
In times past, I remember the low oil warning process was that there was a time requirement from when the vehicle was off to when it was started for the low oil check to be made and be valid. If restarted before the timer was up, there would be no check of the level. I assume the timer was to allow for proper drain back to get a proper reading.
Oh and as as edit, the check is only done at startup. IOW it's not a continuous function/monitor.
 
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The oil light is never going to come on if it's 1-2 qts low on 10qt fill so I knew that it was way lower. The good news is if it's 5-6 than you will be just fine the other 4qts are purely for tracking and temperatures so your fine imo. The other good news is they should know that and have ZERO ISSSUES on extended warranty because it's not going to cost them either.
Talked to some knowledgeable folks and your explanation does make sense, and makes me feel a lot better. Since our BWs have a wet sump, as long as the oil pickup remained covered in oil (no extreme g forces), it should be fine so long as pressure didn't drop to a very low level (or oil temp very high). The extra capacity is to a certain extent for temperature stability when tracking and extending change intervals.
 
Talked to some knowledgeable folks and your explanation does make sense, and makes me feel a lot better. Since our BWs have a wet sump, as long as the oil pickup remained covered in oil (no extreme g forces), it should be fine so long as pressure didn't drop to a very low level (or oil temp very high). The extra capacity is to a certain extent for temperature stability when tracking and extending change intervals.
Yes, having those extra quarts on wet sump is key going sideways/pickup tube and for cooling. Also being DI engine the oil gets beat up rather quickly and tracking it just kills the additives so quick it's ridiculous.

Still there is absolutely no excuse for that service mishap!
 

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