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Potential new CT4-V Blackwing owner, things to note on delivery?

If you have any dealer installed parts, check that you get the parts they removed. This includes painted mirror covers if you got the black cover option, V floor mats if you have the premium ones installed. I also had black lug nuts, but they don't seem to give the chrome ones based on other postings. Check that you have the tow hook, air pump, and fuel funnel in the spare tire compartment. Some folks have reported missing pieces there.

Check the lower areas for damage like was mentioned for wheels. I didn't realize my left rocker molding trim was cracked until I took it in for PPF a week after I drove it home. I had to order a new part and have it painted on my dime, and then take it back to have just that piece covered with PPF. Lucky for me it was just plastic, not CF. Still over $350 for parts and labor.
 
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Inspect closely for paint imperfections. There have been plenty of cases where paint is sprayed over dirt. Most paint imperfections can be addressed to an extent by a good detailer. If you find issues ask for a lower price or the dealership to cover the cost of polishing and ceramic coating.
+1 - my paint was a total disaster - but dealer did the right thing and threw me $2K for a full paint correction with my local detailer.
 
- Verify the brake cooling ducts for track days are in the trunk. They shouldn't be installed for normal driving because they can feed gravel/rocks into your rotors.

I hadn't been aware of this until now.
My 1LE had ducts and several people upgraded to the BW ducts because they were larger. I haven't heard of any issues running them on the street. Maybe the 1LE dudes just didn't care.

I'll get the car in the air and look to see what all is under there this weekend.
 
I also had black lug nuts, but they don't seem to give the chrome ones based on other postings.
Sewell gave me the regular chrome lug nuts. All dealers should. It is no different that the floor mats or mirror caps. You pay for replacement parts put on by the dealer. They should return the originals.
 
Did you get the silver manual? That was a good price, if so. Good luck & have fun!
I did. Less than what they posted on the website. I shot my shot and the manager called my bluff. No way I could get that pricing in Norcal. They wouldn't even bother to call me back and when I went in-person, they blew me off. Up here, they won't budge from their markup.
 
Break in: For 500 miles don't go above 4k RPM, vary your speed and engine load. Don't track it until after 1500 miles. Change the eLSD gear fluid at 1500 and after first track event. Very good idea to do your first oil change at 500-1500 miles to get rid of all the break in material sloshing around your oil pan.
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I'm just at 500. How critical is the diff fluid change at 1500? I figured I'd take it in for the early oil change just below 1500, maybe I do that then? All seems good right now, though I have not checked actual oil levels but no alerts from diagnostics/screen so far.
 
I haven't done my diff fluid yet, almost at 3800 miles. Not a bad idea for the same reason as the engine, remove any metal particles from break in.

Anyone know what fluid to use, I'm being a lazy ass and don't feel like looking in the manual.
 
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