Potential new CT4-V Blackwing owner, things to note on delivery?

[Dirkbg]

If you have any dealer installed parts, check that you get the parts they removed. This includes painted mirror covers if you got the black cover option, V floor mats if you have the premium ones installed. I also had black lug nuts, but they don't seem to give the chrome ones based on other postings. Check that you have the tow hook, air pump, and fuel funnel in the spare tire compartment. Some folks have reported missing pieces there.

Check the lower areas for damage like was mentioned for wheels. I didn't realize my left rocker molding trim was cracked until I took it in for PPF a week after I drove it home. I had to order a new part and have it painted on my dime, and then take it back to have just that piece covered with PPF. Lucky for me it was just plastic, not CF. Still over $350 for parts and labor.

 

[oldskoolboarder]

- If they haven't drilled into your front bumper for the license plate holder, make sure they don't install it.

Sales manager confirmed it's not drilled. I'm scheduled to pick up my new baby from Tustin Cadillac on Friday. PSYCHED.

 

[AC2024]

Inspect closely for paint imperfections. There have been plenty of cases where paint is sprayed over dirt. Most paint imperfections can be addressed to an extent by a good detailer. If you find issues ask for a lower price or the dealership to cover the cost of polishing and ceramic coating.

+1 - my paint was a total disaster - but dealer did the right thing and threw me $2K for a full paint correction with my local detailer.

 

[ngoni]

Sales manager confirmed it's not drilled. I'm scheduled to pick up my new baby from Tustin Cadillac on Friday. PSYCHED.

There's a lot of good no-drill options. Mounting in the tow attachment can trigger the parking sensor, and could require some finagling. These seem to work well as long as you get the optional leveler:

https://www.slybrackets.com/store/SLY-BRACKET-FOR-CADILLAC-CT4-WITH-MESH-STYLE-LOWER-GRILLE-p566058593

 

[BlackDiamondCT5VBW]

Did you get the silver manual? That was a good price, if so. Good luck & have fun!

 

[Melon]

- Verify the brake cooling ducts for track days are in the trunk. They shouldn't be installed for normal driving because they can feed gravel/rocks into your rotors.

I hadn't been aware of this until now.
My 1LE had ducts and several people upgraded to the BW ducts because they were larger. I haven't heard of any issues running them on the street. Maybe the 1LE dudes just didn't care.

I'll get the car in the air and look to see what all is under there this weekend.

 

[668LT4]

I also had black lug nuts, but they don't seem to give the chrome ones based on other postings.

Sewell gave me the regular chrome lug nuts. All dealers should. It is no different that the floor mats or mirror caps. You pay for replacement parts put on by the dealer. They should return the originals.

 

[oldskoolboarder]

Did you get the silver manual? That was a good price, if so. Good luck & have fun!

I did. Less than what they posted on the website. I shot my shot and the manager called my bluff. No way I could get that pricing in Norcal. They wouldn't even bother to call me back and when I went in-person, they blew me off. Up here, they won't budge from their markup.

 

[oldskoolboarder]

Break in: For 500 miles don't go above 4k RPM, vary your speed and engine load. Don't track it until after 1500 miles. Change the eLSD gear fluid at 1500 and after first track event. Very good idea to do your first oil change at 500-1500 miles to get rid of all the break in material sloshing around your oil pan.
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I'm just at 500. How critical is the diff fluid change at 1500? I figured I'd take it in for the early oil change just below 1500, maybe I do that then? All seems good right now, though I have not checked actual oil levels but no alerts from diagnostics/screen so far.

 

[Melon]

I haven't done my diff fluid yet, almost at 3800 miles. Not a bad idea for the same reason as the engine, remove any metal particles from break in.

Anyone know what fluid to use, I'm being a lazy ass and don't feel like looking in the manual.

 

[Dirkbg]

 

[Melon]

You're a peach, thanks.

 

[668LT4]

Break in: For 500 miles don't go above 4k RPM, vary your speed and engine load. Don't track it until after 1500 miles. Change the eLSD gear fluid at 1500 and after first track event. Very good idea to do your first oil change at 500-1500 miles to get rid of all the break in material sloshing around your oil pan.

The owner's manual actually says not to exceed 4000 RPM for 1500 miles. I understand the RPM gauge graphic changes at 500 miles, but the manual recommends 1500 miles before exceeding 4000 RPM.

I wonder how many resale cars (and some new cars, see the youtube video with the moron WTF Car Reviews redlining a brand new CT5-V Blackwing) under 1500 miles adhered to the recommendation. Oh yah, 0 of them did.

 

[1Evil55]

The owner's manual actually says not to exceed 4000 RPM for 1500 miles. I understand the RPM gauge graphic changes at 500 miles, but the manual recommends 1500 miles before exceeding 4000 RPM.

I wonder how many resale cars (and some new cars, see the youtube video with the moron WTF Car Reviews redlining a brand new CT5-V Blackwing) under 1500 miles adhered to the recommendation. Oh yah, 0 of them did.

Those are all the "like new" cars selling as used online. My 4 was purchased with a few thousand already on the clock. Knowing the warranty is in full effect helps me sleep at night.

 

[668LT4]

Those are all the "like new" cars selling as used online. My 4 was purchased with a few thousand already on the clock. Knowing the warranty is in full effect helps me sleep at night.

Yup. For all the engine fears, having a long powertrain warranty is piece of mind. I guess some guys worry about resale value if it gets replaced, but as someone who intends to keep mine forever and then hand it down, I just want it to always run. I can't imagine how cool it will be to roll around in one of these 20 years from now.

 

[ngoni]

The owner's manual actually says not to exceed 4000 RPM for 1500 miles. I understand the RPM gauge graphic changes at 500 miles, but the manual recommends 1500 miles before exceeding 4000 RPM.

I wonder how many resale cars (and some new cars, see the youtube video with the moron WTF Car Reviews redlining a brand new CT5-V Blackwing) under 1500 miles adhered to the recommendation. Oh yah, 0 of them did.

You are correct. Thank you for clarifying.

 

[oldskoolboarder]

I understand the RPM gauge graphic changes at 500 miles, but the manual recommends 1500 miles before exceeding 4000 RPM.

Graphic changes? How?

 

[shbox]

Graphic changes? How?

The redline on the tach changes from a lower to higher value at 500 miles (tricking people into thinking break-in is done).

 

[ngoni]

The redline on the tach changes from a lower to higher value at 500 miles (tricking people into thinking break-in is done).

Yeah that's really deceptive. Left hand and right hand at GM I suppose. Considering how expensive the engine is, I'm willing to baby it a bit longer to ensure it lasts.

 

[668LT4]

I wonder how many owners went a full 1500 miles without ever exceeding 4000 RPM. I was very good for 500 miles with my 2022, but that tach changing does make it harder. I posted a video once before, honest to God truth... within seconds of hitting 500 miles and my tach opening up to 6500, Welcome to the Jungle began to play on the radio. It was amazing. I wonder what will play when the current car gets there?