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Jacking up your Blackwing

So, not for nothing, what was the point of your post? There is no adaptor - that‘s the whole darn point!
Point of the post was that people were fussing over using the pinch weld that has been the jacking point for years. I don't find it a big deal to get an adapter for use with a floor jack, but that's just me.
 
Point of the post was that people were fussing over using the pinch weld that has been the jacking point for years. I don't find it a big deal to get an adapter for use with a floor jack, but that's just me.
Still not following. There is no adaptor. There isn’t even any guidance in the CT4 manual on how to jack the car up. The car comes with summer tires. I get a second set of rims and winter tires. I want to jack up and change myself like I’ve done for years. And I don’t want to damage anything.
 
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Still not following. There is no adaptor. There isn’t even any guidance in the CT4 manual on how the car up. The car comes with summer tires. I get a second set of rims and winter tires. I want to jack up and change myself like I’ve done for years. And I don’t want to damage anything.
This thread is filled with jacking experiences you can choose from...or not. I have a ZL1 Add-ons adapter that I used on my previous Camaro and it works fine for me ,but a guy earlier in the thread said it was problematic for him. Not everyone has the same idea or results, it seems.

And no, your car did not come with an adapter. That's kinda what the thread is about.
 
The jacking information from the CT4 service manual says:

Frame Contact Lift:

The vehicle should be lifted so that the hoist pads and or lift arms do not contact the rocker panel molding. The hoist pad must be located in the designated area. In the front location, place the lift pads on the rocker outer panel weld flange. In the rear location, place the lift pads on the rocker outer panel rear cradle brace. Care should be taken to ensure the hoist pad is inside the rocker panel molding cut out area (notch) to prevent damage to the vehicle.

Front Lift Pads
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When lifting the vehicle with a frame-contact lift, position the pad as close as possible to the rocker molding cutout.

Rear Lift Pads
1679523742541.png

When lifting the vehicle with a frame-contact lift, cover the inner and outer edges of the rear suspension bracket (arrow). Use the cutout in the rocker molding to correctly position the pad for/aft. If you need to remove the rear suspension bracket, place a jack stand under area X. Raise the jack stand high enough to free the hoist pad from the rear suspension bracket for service.

Vehicle Jacking:

Caution: When you are jacking the vehicle at the front locations, be certain that the jack or the jack lift pad does not contact the front fascia, front fascia air dam, or the front fenders. If such contact occurs, vehicle damage may result. When jacking at selected front locations additional clearance may be required for the jacking points.

Note: When you are lifting a vehicle with a service jack, block the wheels at the opposite end from which you are lifting. Use jack stands to provide additional support.

Front of vehicle
1679523912092.png


When using a service jack under the front of the vehicle use one of the following locations:

Place the service jack pad in the same location as shown for the front lift pads or on the front center jack pad shown.

Rear of Vehicle

Note: Place jackstands ONLY under strong and stable vehicle structures.

Place the service jack pad in the same location as shown for the rear lift pads.
 
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Still not following. There is no adaptor. There isn’t even any guidance in the CT4 manual on how the car up. The car comes with summer tires. I get a second set of rims and winter tires. I want to jack up and change myself like I’ve done for years. And I don’t want to damage anything.
Don't follow your not following. There are untold amount of various pinchweld adapters out there. I have 4 or 5 different sets in my garage, some specific (last several gen of Corvette) some universal, some rubber/composite, some aluminum.


I have purchased print version of this guide over the years. Priceless information.
 
Somebody really wants to keep their tires on their car forever.
 
The fact that there is a conversation this in-depth about something as basic as jacking a car up says GM did something wrong. My M2 had the easiest jacking points with pads attached and no spare tire. Audi S4 had nice clear jack points. The fact that the caddy owner's manual doesn’t give any instructions is just a joke.
 
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The fact that there is a conversation this in-depth about something as basic as jacking a car up says GM did something wrong. My M2 had the easiest jacking points with pads attached and no spare tire. Audi S4 had nice clear jack points. the fact the the caddy owners manual doesn’t give any instructions is just a joke.
My 2019 AMG had very clear jack points and no spare (I added a full size spare and put it in the truck along with a tool kit I assembled). Before that I had an S4 and it was also clearly indicated.

I agree, it’s ridiculous that this topic even needs to be discussed at such great length. This is a very unique vehicle and no regrets buying it, but after this car I’m going back to German.
 
I’m holding off on the no regrets. See my 2023 4BW thread.
 
I agree that it's absurd it's this difficult to figure out how to safely get your car up in the air.

I am only going to speak to the ZL1addons issue...if you are using another method, this might not pertain to you.

The ZL1addons 'standard' jack points DO NOT FIT without cutting the plastic liner that is in between the rocker panel and the pinch weld. If you have installed the standard points and 'adjusted' them to make them fit without trimming the plastic, they are going to fail and you are going to damage your car and potentially cause injury.

It is possible the 'stealth' pads work without trimming the plastic. I don't have the stealth set in hand yet to try. I DO have the ZL1addons pucks and those work perfectly with no modifications.

The problem with the 'standard' points is the sides are too thick and the bottom of the channel is too deep.

IMG_0693.jpgIMG_0695.jpgIMG_0864.jpgIMG_0865.jpg

You can clearly see the difference. Hopefully, someone with the stealth pad can measure the sides and depth and see if they are more like the standard or the puck.
 
I agree that it's absurd it's this difficult to figure out how to safely get your car up in the air.

I am only going to speak to the ZL1addons issue...if you are using another method, this might not pertain to you.

The ZL1addons 'standard' jack points DO NOT FIT without cutting the plastic liner that is in between the rocker panel and the pinch weld. If you have installed the standard points and 'adjusted' them to make them fit without trimming the plastic, they are going to fail and you are going to damage your car and potentially cause injury.

It is possible the 'stealth' pads work without trimming the plastic. I don't have the stealth set in hand yet to try. I DO have the ZL1addons pucks and those work perfectly with no modifications.

The problem with the 'standard' points is the sides are too thick and the bottom of the channel is too deep.

View attachment 17815View attachment 17816View attachment 17817View attachment 17818

You can clearly see the difference. Hopefully, someone with the stealth pad can measure the sides and depth and see if they are more like the standard or the puck.
I spoke with a rep at ZL1addons two days ago. None of their products work for a 4BW. They don’t recommend any of them.
 
I agree that it's absurd it's this difficult to figure out how to safely get your car up in the air.

I am only going to speak to the ZL1addons issue...if you are using another method, this might not pertain to you.

The ZL1addons 'standard' jack points DO NOT FIT without cutting the plastic liner that is in between the rocker panel and the pinch weld. If you have installed the standard points and 'adjusted' them to make them fit without trimming the plastic, they are going to fail and you are going to damage your car and potentially cause injury.

It is possible the 'stealth' pads work without trimming the plastic. I don't have the stealth set in hand yet to try. I DO have the ZL1addons pucks and those work perfectly with no modifications.

The problem with the 'standard' points is the sides are too thick and the bottom of the channel is too deep.

View attachment 17815View attachment 17816View attachment 17817View attachment 17818

You can clearly see the difference. Hopefully, someone with the stealth pad can measure the sides and depth and see if they are more like the standard or the puck.
Rough draft, maybe this can lend some additional info?

EDIT: Depth of the channel is 1/2" sorry about the add on edits!
 

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You folks are ABSOLUTELY correct, when you mention the fact that it's as clear as mud "generally speaking" in the owner's manual. Did they cover this detail at SM in "as a matter of fact" moment by any chance?

EDIT: I just received my oil and Im going to install while Im there doing the oil change. I did a dry fit and they look fine for a CF1 5BW.
 
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Channel depth of my stealth pads is a heavy 5/8ths or like 16mm.
 
Channel depth of my stealth pads is a heavy 5/8ths or like 16mm.
You are correct, my measurement is from the bevel edge to the bottom of the channel. Add the hair, it sits fine on the pinch weld with the channel depth, cleared the regular skirt on a 5BW
 
Is the reason this topic is 10 pages is because some folks are trying to find lift points adaptors that touch both the pinch welded lip and the immediate body structure at the same time? Or is it you guys only want it to touch one or the other surface only?
 
Is the reason this topic is 10 pages is because some folks are trying to find lift points adaptors that touch both the pinch welded lip and the immediate body structure at the same time? Or is it you guys only want it to touch one or the other surface only?
For me, the Blackwing Zl1addons are so disappointing because that’s exactly how the Camaro and Mustang lift points fit. They we precisely measured to contact the top of the sides of the weld (just for stability) while the pinch weld itself sat perfectly in the channel. Then you used the set screws with some locktite to keep everything in place.

I wish I had better pics, but hopefully you can see what I mean with my old set in the pics.

EB4EE78F-3D0C-4FD5-BDC1-CC11D4F3FDE0.jpeg67744BBF-9C0F-4B20-8E1E-D1D680E51FD3.jpeg
 

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