Wheel Alignment - Review and tips

[Neebs]

Resurrecting this thread. I got track alignment at a race shop earlier this yr, my oem ps4s went on day 2, got v730s and the fronts corded on the outsides on day 2 as well which was unacceptable. Not sure if alignment got knocked out, I was over driving, pressures were wrong (35-36 hot) or what, but questions are:

1) What is the max possible camber you can get with stock suspension maxing out both knuckle and strut adjustment (assuming you can do both together)? I want to be better educated next time I take car to shop

2) Any ideas on which camber plates work well with ct4vbw? I have never modded suspension on cars before so a bit of noob. I just don’t want to kill endurance tires in 2 days (run in advanced group)

 

[Mbar]

Do y

Resurrecting this thread. I got track alignment at a race shop earlier this yr, my oem ps4s went on day 2, got v730s and the fronts corded on the outsides on day 2 as well which was unacceptable. Not sure if alignment got knocked out, I was over driving, pressures were wrong (35-36 hot) or what, but questions are:

1) What is the max possible camber you can get with stock suspension maxing out both knuckle and strut adjustment (assuming you can do both together)? I want to be better educated next time I take car to shop

2) Any ideas on which camber plates work well with ct4vbw? I have never modded suspension on cars before so a bit of noob. I just don’t want to kill endurance tires in 2 days (run in advanced group)

Do you have a picture with your alignment specs? Which track are you driving on? At what level group are you driving? Do you know your lap time? At what traction / stability level setting are you driving?

35 hot with the stock tiers is a good target.
If your alignment is ok, the. It could be a combination of the track and not ideal driving style. If your alignment is not ok the it’s another story.
4BW can get a max of 2.5 neg in the front with stock suspension.
I have 3 days at VIR and 2 days at Summit point. My fronts should have about 2-3 more days in them. Neg 2 in the front.

 

[Neebs]

Do y

Do you have a picture with your alignment specs? Which track are you driving on? At what level group are you driving? Do you know your lap time? At what traction / stability level setting are you driving?

35 hot with the stock tiers is a good target.
If your alignment is ok, the. It could be a combination of the track and not ideal driving style. If your alignment is not ok the it’s another story.
4BW can get a max of 2.5 neg in the front with stock suspension.
I have 3 days at VIR and 2 days at Summit point. My fronts should have about 2-3 more days in them. Neg 2 in the front.

I can’t find the printout but they were precisely what the manual has for track both on camber (-2.4 fronts; -1.8 rear) and toe (0.1 total toe in f/r if I remember right). And specs were balanced / even on both sides. Obviously there is a possibility alignment got knocked out of spec.

MSR-Houston. Advance group. Running 1.47s consistently with kumho v730 (which I think is relatively quick). 1.51s with ps4s. SRF and SR11 pads upfront (per your other thread / rec). Stock pads rear. Using Sport performance traction system. I may need to start with higher pressures (low 30s and bleed).

Front v730 lasted about 3 gas tanks. Both sides were showing cords.

You get to max 2.5 with -2 on knuckle and -0.5 more doing strut tower per manual, right?

 

[Mbar]

I can’t find the printout but they were precisely what the manual has for track both on camber (-2.4 fronts; -1.8 rear) and toe (0.1 total toe in f/r if I remember right). And specs were balanced / even on both sides. Obviously there is a possibility alignment got knocked out of spec.

MSR-Houston. Advance group. Running 1.47s consistently with kumho v730 (which I think is relatively quick). 1.51s with ps4s. SRF and SR11 pads upfront (per your other thread / rec). Stock pads rear. Using Sport performance traction system. I may need to start with higher pressures (low 30s and bleed).

Front v730 lasted about 3 gas tanks. Both sides were showing cords.

You get to max 2.5 with -2 on knuckle and -0.5 more doing strut tower per manual, right?

Knocking that pin at the strut tower only adds 0.1-0.2 front camber.

Your pics show some serious wear after not too many runs.
I’m am not a tier pro, but either your toe at the front is messed up or you are pinching your turns too much and produce too much understeer that chunks the fronts.
Are you trail breaking? If not, it’s something that could help with rotation and reducing understeer.
A typical wear when you don’t have enough camber is cording the tier right at the outer shoulder. Your wear is more to the inside.
One more point to think about- track is counter clockwise , which would make me think the only one side should take a beating. Since both tiers are dead, it makes me lean again towards bad Toe or driving style.

 

[PL69]

4 Track days, -2.5 camber toe 0, very aggressive driving, tires flipped + run backwards.

These are heavy cars and some tire compounds are more sensitive to the weight.

 

[SLO WING]

I took my car to a race shop for an alignment. My goal was to get -2.0 in the front as this is my daily driver and I was worried about ride comfort and steering 'wondering' with the -2.5 option as seen in the owners manual (removing bolt from the strut tower - similar to Camaro ZL1 1LE - See attached Pic) .
Sadly we could only get -1.6 in the front which I find odd. Even my non 1LE Camaro SS was able to reach -2.0 . I wonder if the tech was doing something wrong, like not loosening the bolts enough. No issue with toe (total 0.1 front and rear).
Did anybody do an alignment on their CT4?
Thanks for your help!



View attachment 8773

Was just working on getting my 4BW prepped for track alignment before taking it to the alignment shop and ran into an issue trying to use the above method as per the manual. The outer alignment pins on both L and R side punched though after a few good whacks, but the inner pins on both sides aren’t budging. Am I doing something wrong or missing a step? Has anyone else had the same issue?

 

[Mbar]

Tosh

Was just working on getting my 4BW prepped for track alignment before taking it to the alignment shop and ran into an issue trying to use the above method as per the manual. The outer alignment pins on both L and R side punched though after a few good whacks, but the inner pins on both sides aren’t budging. Am I doing something wrong or missing a step? Has anyone else had the same issue

Was just working on getting my 4BW prepped for track alignment before taking it to the alignment shop and ran into an issue trying to use the above method as per the manual. The outer alignment pins on both L and R side punched though after a few good whacks, but the inner pins on both sides aren’t budging. Am I doing something wrong or missing a step? Has anyone else had the same issue?

Those pins are a real pain to punch. Almost like you need to lift the front of the car loosen the camber bolts and find the perfect position to punch them.
HOWEVER, in my humble opinion there’s no need to remove them. It only provides an additional 0.1-0.2 of neg camber. -2.5 is good enough for a street car.

 

[SLO WING]

Tosh



Those pins are a real pain to punch. Almost like you need to lift the front of the car loosen the camber bolts and find the perfect position to punch them.
HOWEVER, in my humble opinion there’s no need to remove them. It only provides an additional 0.1-0.2 of neg camber. -2.5 is good enough for a street car.

Thanks for the reply. Never really tracked my own car before or even worried about track alignment. My thought was that the steps referenced in the manual needed to be done prior to attaining anything close to the recommended 2.6 degrees. Will probably just button it back up and go to alignment shop w/o getting final pins out. Maybe take it to the dealer later when other maintenance is needed and ask them to take a look at it. The tech at Seaside Cadillac is awesome.