Detailing subforum is dead, so hope you guys won't mind this post here.
I'd like this to be a place where we can discuss best car wash practices.
Some tips and what I personally do:
This assumes you have a shaded area to wash your car. Pressure washer is recommended. For black car owners, and serious detail enthusiasts, I suggest using a Deionized water system to up your game. Assumes you wash regularly and it's not an abomination of filth whenever you decide to finally wash your car.
1. Wash your wheels first. Foam cannon/spray wheel cleaner or what else you prefer. Rinse clean. Use dedicated bucket/brush/towels for this. Never use these things for car paint.
2. Foam Cannon on dry car. Let it dwell a few minutes and do it's job of softening, and lifting dirt off your paint. (If you rinse before this, the water left on the car will dilute the snow foam, reducing it's cleaning power)
3. Rinse off car thoroughly. (Most of the dirt/debris should be safely off your car now. All you should have left is really a light film of grime that will be taken care of with the next couple of steps)
4. Foam cannon again.(Optional step, but ensures each panel of the car never gets cleaned without maximum lubrication. Lubricity is what will help prevent marring/swirls)
5. 2 Bucket method with grit guards on both. I've personally switched to 1 bucket: car shampoo solution + 6-7 wash mitts. Once the mitt is used on both sides, it gets tossed to the dirty bin not to be used again. Wash from top down, leaving the bottom 1/3 half of your car for a later wash mitt.
6. Rinse with pressure washer.
7. Drying:
A) Assuming your car is properly waxed, you can use an open hose with water flowing out about medium strength and a steady flow, angled parallel as much as possible and water should sheet off your car.
B) Use a high powered leaf blower like an Ego, or dedicated one like Metro Air Blaster to blow off all the water as much as you can. This method will also clear most of the crevices where water can stay, and fly back onto your clean paint when you take it on the road. Think the drips from your door handles, mirrors, lights, etc. Pretty much a necessity to dry your wheels.
C) if you use a Deionized water system, you can just walk away and it'll dry itself without water spots. This assumes the filtration is working at 100%, your resin hasn't been depleted, and it's at zero PPM using a TDS meter. Best for black cars as this reduces physical contact with your paint.
D) Previous methods can and will use physical drying with high quality microfiber towels(god fucking help your paint if you still use old bath towels you neanderthal).
1. Optional: Lay down a light mist of quick detailer like McKees N-914 or the tried and
true Optimum no rinse and shine diluted to the proper ratio. This is to help lubricate the surface as you physically dry your car.
Final notes and thought: I usually finish with a final step like P&S Dream maker, or some kind of quick spray wax that you can spray on and wipe off to enhance gloss. I'm personally using CarPro products like ph-neutral Reset car shampoo. Microfiber towels are from The Rag Company. Also using those cheap yellow microfiber towels from Costco for door jambs, interior, wheels and engine bay work.
My current and future vehicles are and will be graphene coated with Glassparency. I also purchased a commercial-grade DI system from PureTec in preparation for the incoming Blackwing. Look into them if you're on the west coast and have them nearby. Cost savings will become significant if you planned on getting CR Spotless.
Keeping my cars looking perfect is a labor of love, and it's something I really enjoy doing.
