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LF4 Engine Oil Temperatures and Type

How many quarts does the 4 take? My 5 takes 9, mobil cases come in 6 packs, so I have 3 extras for next change. I'm just about 3k miles did my own at 1500 and will monitor oil life for dealer freebie.

The book says 7qts for the 3.6L
 
Speedwaymotors was my go to when I had my ZL1. They have kits as well (2) Cases, (12) qts plus a PF64 filter for $136. You keep the extra 2 qts and on your 3rd oil change you only need to buy 1 case. :)

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Fantastic! Thank you sir!
 
How many quarts does the 4 take? My 5 takes 9, mobil cases come in 6 packs, so I have 3 extras for next change. I'm just about 3k miles did my own at 1500 and will monitor oil life for dealer freebie.
4BW takes 7 of the less expensive 5w-30 Dexos 1 oil. Less than $5 a quart at Walmart. The 5BW should actually take 10qts of the 0W-40 Dexos2 or newer DexosR unless something has changed.
 
I've had a really hard time finding the Mobil 1 5w-30 Dexos 1 Gen 3 on Walmart or Amazon. They are loaded up with the high mileage stuff, and the normal version photos don't show the Dexos spec. I did find Castrol and Valvoline in 5-quart jugs with the Dexos 1 Gen 3 spec at under $30 on Amazon. I think I'll likely just get Castrol. I always got that brand for my GLI and Audi.
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4BW takes 7 of the less expensive 5w-30 Dexos 1 oil. Less than $5 a quart at Walmart. The 5BW should actually take 10qts of the 0W-40 Dexos2 or newer DexosR unless something has changed.
I changed my 5BW last weekend and it took 9 quarts with oil filter change, same as the book stated it would. I checked this evening and it’s full to top hash marks.
 
I changed my 5BW last weekend and it took 9 quarts with oil filter change, same as the book stated it would. I checked this evening and it’s full to top hash marks.

Interesting, they must be using a slightly smaller oil pan on the LT4 on the 5BW. The LT1 and LT4 in the Camaros take 10qts. I think the Escalade with the LT4 takes 8qts.
 
I've had a really hard time finding the Mobil 1 5w-30 Dexos 1 Gen 3 on Walmart or Amazon. They are loaded up with the high mileage stuff, and the normal version photos don't show the Dexos spec. I did find Castrol and Valvoline in 5-quart jugs with the Dexos 1 Gen 3 spec at under $30 on Amazon. I think I'll likely just get Castrol. I always got that brand for my GLI and Audi.
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They always seem to have it in stock at my local Walmart stores. They also carry that high mileage version. I guess that could work as well but it costs more. Ideally, you just grab the least expensive Dexos 1 and call it a day.
 
My plan for my 4BW is to do a oil change myself at 1500mi with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and a OE PF63 filter but then not reset the oil life monitor. Then Ill get the dealer freebie change around 25% life remaining and run that free one until about 40% before settling in to a more regular change interval at around 30%. Im still not sure if the UPF63R is an upgrade for a stock vehicle since Ive read that its bypass pressure is higher and the current PF63 is pretty decent.


It really depends on how you run the car. I have yet to develop full trust in the oil life monitoring for street duty, but it seemed pretty close for more aggressive driving.

My oil was NOT horrible at 30%, but it was ready for a change. I'm not totally sure how it calculates oil life but looking at the oil in my car which admittedly gets driven quite hard vs oil from a non turbo street car at 23% their oil was much much dirtier and broken down. The LF4 is a high-performance version of the ubiquitous high feature V6s so oil maintenance specifically sludge and varnish are to be avoided at all cost.
 
It really depends on how you run the car. I have yet to develop full trust in the oil life monitoring for street duty, but it seemed pretty close for more aggressive driving.

My oil was NOT horrible at 30%, but it was ready for a change. I'm not totally sure how it calculates oil life but looking at the oil in my car which admittedly gets driven quite hard vs oil from a non turbo street car at 23% their oil was much much dirtier and broken down. The LF4 is a high-performance version of the ubiquitous high feature V6s so oil maintenance specifically sludge and varnish are to be avoided at all cost.

I ran used oil analysis on the LS3 in my SS every oil change on Pennzoil Platinum and they all came back pristine when changed at 25-30% oil life remaining. Ill be bumping up to Ultra Platinum on this car due to the turbos and Ill send in an oil sample after the dealer freebie to see whats happening.
 
Has anyone seen oil pressures all the way down to 15 PSI on the CT4?View attachment 18972
I see 17-18psi at hot idle. What is the oil monitor life at, percentage-wise? Also, are you running the stock 5W30 oil?

By the way, anyone else notice that the tires stay listed as "cool" temp much longer after the latest software update? My tires used to say normal but now even after the pressures rise 3 psi and they still show cool just like in your pic.
 
I see 17-18psi at hot idle. What is the oil monitor life at, percentage-wise? Also, are you running the stock 5W30 oil?

By the way, anyone else notice that the tires stay listed as "cool" temp much longer after the latest software update? My tires used to say normal but now even after the pressures rise 3 psi and they still show cool just like in your pic.
The oil life is at around 40%. This is the lowest I've seen it. Normally it idles at around 18-19psi when hot. I have had the oil replaced once with the same oil it came with from the factory.
 
The oil life is at around 40%. This is the lowest I've seen it. Normally it idles at around 18-19psi when hot. I have had the oil replaced once with the same oil it came with from the factory.
Were you doing any spirited driving where the oil temps were higher before you took this pic? Was it a hotter day than normal where you were driving? I am in Florida with 88 degree temps. Once warmed up oil pressure is about 18-19psi like you mentioned but lately I see it dip to 17psi-18psi at hot idle. I am at about 40% oil life remaining as well. 2500 miles on the car. I will be curious to see if it go back to 19-20psi at hot idle once you change the oil and filter again.
 
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Were you doing any spirited driving where the oil temps were higher before you took this pic? Was is a hotter day than normal where you were driving? I am in Florida with 88 degree temps. Once warmed up oil pressure is about 18-19psi like you mentioned but lately I see it dip to 17psi-18psi at hot idle. I am at about 40% oil life remaining as well. 2500 miles on the car. I will be curious to see if it go back to 19-20psi at hot idle once you change the oil and filter again.
I was not doing any sustained spirited driving prior to noticing the pressure. It was a bit hotter yesterday than it has been at around 90 degrees here in Fort Worth.
 
It really depends on how you run the car. I have yet to develop full trust in the oil life monitoring for street duty, but it seemed pretty close for more aggressive driving.

My oil was NOT horrible at 30%, but it was ready for a change. I'm not totally sure how it calculates oil life but looking at the oil in my car which admittedly gets driven quite hard vs oil from a non turbo street car at 23% their oil was much much dirtier and broken down. The LF4 is a high-performance version of the ubiquitous high feature V6s so oil maintenance specifically sludge and varnish are to be avoided at all cost.
the algorithm is pretty sophisticated. time, rpm, temp, etc. all go into it. a good read here info on GM oil life monitor
 
For those using Mobil 1 5w-30, for just a few more pennies you can get Mobil 1 Extended Performance which uses a better base and is generally regarded a better oil for the turbo bearings. It comes in 5qt jugs, so I buy three at a time which gives me two oil changes (4bw = 7qt) and I have one qt left for top off. I find mine will consume about a qt of oil over 7500 miles. I have been using the UPF63R filter. Note, the filter flute wrench is not the same for the UPF63R as the PF63.

Last oil change, I must have cranked on the filter a bit tight, took both the flute wrench and the adjustable band wrench on the body together to get the filter off.
 
Well, when the motor, the (LT$) 5BW gets cooked more than once. Might be a good idea to read? Why do you think everyone "should" read this? @Throat Yogurt
 
I was not doing any sustained spirited driving prior to noticing the pressure. It was a bit hotter yesterday than it has been at around 90 degrees here in Fort Worth.
FWIW, I did an oil change today and noticed a slight increase in the idle oil pressure. At 196 degree temps I would bounce between 17 - 18 psi, mostly 18 with some dips to 17 here and there. Now I am getting 19-20psi at the same oil temp with the fresh oil. However, I did change the filter from a PF63 to a UPF63R as recommended by some of the folks here.

Ambient temp here is 90 degrees. I went and drove in a spirited fashion and got the oil temp up to 210 and I was still seeing 19 psi with some dips to 18 psi so the fresh oil does appear to play a role but only 1-2psi in my testing so far. Also not sure if the filter change makes any difference.

I would do an oil change and see if you notice a difference. Also, check to see if you are a little low on oil. From what I read, it is a good idea to change the oil a little more frequently in the LF4.
 
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Some oil pressure specs I ran across in service information. I'm assuming these are likely minimum values fully warmed up as the first listing (for the 2.0L not shown here) said 100 ° C.

3.6L: @ Idle - 69 kPa (10 psi)
3.6L: @ 2, 000 RPM - 138 kPa (20 psi)
3.6L: Piston Cooling Jet Valve OpeningPressure - 2.2-3.0 bar (32.3-44 psi)
 

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