Hello lads. New ct4v BW

[obeykube]

Coming from a mechanical engineer (which isn't in the car industry but does design mechanical assemblies everyday (valves).....so the f%&k do I know?) recommended break in intervals usually take into account what, ideally, the manufacturer thinks would be best in order to properly "wear down" the contact surfaces/points on an engine safely and progressively, to keep too large of FOD particles (foreign object debris) swirling around your engine and resulting in even wear and "good" clearances with moving parts. I've always subscribed to the idea however, that when it comes to topics like this, where there is no monetary incentive to steer you in a certain direction, that the manufacturer probably knows best. Brand of oil? Service at the dealer? only use genuine parts? Sure. Probably some monetary motivation to steer you that way. How to break in your engine? Not sure how they would get money or any satisfaction in telling you to break in your engine in a wrong way. And before someone says "so you buy another one or bring it to the dealer more" every car company is chasing customers. You get customers by a lot of things but you don't get any by having cars break all the time. So, again, IMO, when it comes to how to break in the engine, I would listen to whoever sold you that engine, pretty much verbatim. They don't have a reason to lie and they designed and brought the damn thing to production. I am pretty sure they know more than you about their product.

 

[Turtleb00st]

Some of the best motor builders who I have been lucky enough to ask all said the same thing. Heat cycles, boost + vacuum asap

Some even break in motors on the dyno after a few heat cycles. Iv broke in all my new cars hard, and broken in motors I personally assembled extremely hard. All bad perfect compression and 0 oil consumption. Even platforms known for consumption (vw 2.0, ej25)

Everybody can do what rhey want to do

 

[Beamz97]

I wanted to add some info for visibility concerning the wheel spacers I installed.

I originally purchased H&R spacers with studs as one piece. The design of the cone portion of the nut does not sit flush thus were not comparable with the oem wheels

I ended up getting some ebay/tiawan/China 15mm spacers with studs installed. Quality is actually very good. I installed the spacers and they appeared flush, and passes the feel test.

Luckily a nice guy on FB told me to check the studs in the hole in the wheel. Sure enough they were making contact with the recess/hole in the stock wheel. I guess Cadillac studs are slightly different than Camaro studs. A couple mm longer.

It appeared only the rears had issue, but I hit the factory studs with an angle grinder on all 4 sides. Wheels are now flush and bolted to the hub correctly.

It’s an LF4 not an LT4