Dirkbg
Seasoned Member
I thought I'd pass on some lessons I learned installing the carbon rear spoiler. In this case, it was the Tapout repro version, but that's just incidental to the story.
Removing the OEM spoiler was a pain. I thought the fishing line would work well, but once you get to the first stud things get interesting. The Tech Manual instructions say to just move around the stud, but no way you can string it through to the inside. I tried squeezing the plastic outer clip while pushing up and eventually got the line through. But the adhesive tape on the left side was super aggressive, and I had to use a dull flat metal blade (actually a stainles steel offset spatula) to work through it. Used tape to protect the paint, and it finally worked.
Before I installed the carbon spoiler, I added some adhesive weather stripping around the stud holes to replicate the OEM. I think it should help seal any water getting past the outer weather stripping. This stuff was about $10 for 30 feet, and it's about the same thickness at the outer but softer so it should mold into the hole. I re-used the four OEM nuts because they also had nylon locks.
I bought a neoprene and metal washer for the outer stud, and a stainless steel nylon locknut.
It went OK until the washer and nut dropped down inside the trunk lid. Several hours trying to fish them out with a wire with a hook on the end didn't work, and the trunk lid sounded like a piggy bank with two coins clinking around in it. I bought a flexible magnet pick up from Harbor Freight and slipped it in, then it promptly wedged into the gap between the outer and inner trunk metal. A couple more hours trying to get the magnet unwedged finally worked, but now I have dimples in the outer trunk skin where it wedged.
Now the important part. After I got the magnet out, I noticed the two rubber bumpers in the lower corners (when raised) and saw one of the little pins was slightly out. I saw them before, but thought they were fixed in and couldn't be removed. Well, just for kicks I got my fingernail under one of the pin heads and it pulled right out. Did the same for the other pin. Then the whole bumper just popped out leaving a nice big opening where the washer and nut were just sitting, ready for me to slip my finger in and get them out. I imaging most of you knew this already, but for anyone that doesn't, it literally takes no tools and about 20 seconds of time to open an access to anything that drops when you are trying to work on the outside spoiler stud. Now I get to take a trip to a dent repair place to see if they can flatten my deck lid.
Oh, by the way, a couple more things. The washer always falls, so I got a small piece of masking tape and stuck to one side overhanging the edge of the washer. Then when I got it on the stud, I pushed it up and pressed the tape against the trunk lid so it held until I could get the nut started. Then I pulled it off before tightening the nut. Also, I folded a blanket and laid across the entire back window when the trunk was open and I was tightening or loosening fasteners. If you drop a wrench, it will drop onto the rear window and probably break it. That's at least one thing that survived this event.
Here's a few pics:
Removing the OEM spoiler was a pain. I thought the fishing line would work well, but once you get to the first stud things get interesting. The Tech Manual instructions say to just move around the stud, but no way you can string it through to the inside. I tried squeezing the plastic outer clip while pushing up and eventually got the line through. But the adhesive tape on the left side was super aggressive, and I had to use a dull flat metal blade (actually a stainles steel offset spatula) to work through it. Used tape to protect the paint, and it finally worked.
Before I installed the carbon spoiler, I added some adhesive weather stripping around the stud holes to replicate the OEM. I think it should help seal any water getting past the outer weather stripping. This stuff was about $10 for 30 feet, and it's about the same thickness at the outer but softer so it should mold into the hole. I re-used the four OEM nuts because they also had nylon locks.
I bought a neoprene and metal washer for the outer stud, and a stainless steel nylon locknut.
It went OK until the washer and nut dropped down inside the trunk lid. Several hours trying to fish them out with a wire with a hook on the end didn't work, and the trunk lid sounded like a piggy bank with two coins clinking around in it. I bought a flexible magnet pick up from Harbor Freight and slipped it in, then it promptly wedged into the gap between the outer and inner trunk metal. A couple more hours trying to get the magnet unwedged finally worked, but now I have dimples in the outer trunk skin where it wedged.
Now the important part. After I got the magnet out, I noticed the two rubber bumpers in the lower corners (when raised) and saw one of the little pins was slightly out. I saw them before, but thought they were fixed in and couldn't be removed. Well, just for kicks I got my fingernail under one of the pin heads and it pulled right out. Did the same for the other pin. Then the whole bumper just popped out leaving a nice big opening where the washer and nut were just sitting, ready for me to slip my finger in and get them out. I imaging most of you knew this already, but for anyone that doesn't, it literally takes no tools and about 20 seconds of time to open an access to anything that drops when you are trying to work on the outside spoiler stud. Now I get to take a trip to a dent repair place to see if they can flatten my deck lid.
Oh, by the way, a couple more things. The washer always falls, so I got a small piece of masking tape and stuck to one side overhanging the edge of the washer. Then when I got it on the stud, I pushed it up and pressed the tape against the trunk lid so it held until I could get the nut started. Then I pulled it off before tightening the nut. Also, I folded a blanket and laid across the entire back window when the trunk was open and I was tightening or loosening fasteners. If you drop a wrench, it will drop onto the rear window and probably break it. That's at least one thing that survived this event.
Here's a few pics:
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