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Carbon fiber PN database.

A window sticker is far less meaningful than VIN dictated build options. Like 46 vs 41 in a VIN means manual vs auto. So a 41 car converted to a manual, that's more meaningful in values vs adding carbon or not lol.
We’ll have to agree to disagree. In the future, you have the choice between the same cars one equipped with carbon fiber in the original build and the other added after the fact. In my mind, the originally equipped car has more value.
 
We’ll have to agree to disagree. In the future, you have the choice between the same cars one equipped with carbon fiber in the original build and the other added after the fact. In my mind, the originally equipped car has more value.
In the case you presented, where would I have indicated I disagree?

I'm just saying, it's less impactful as things that are tied to the build of the VIN.
 
Does anyone actually believe any of the critical electronics modules needed to keep these cars running will be available in 30 years? The only way to keep them running will be to heavily modify them with whatever technology exists at that time. An electric Blackwing “restoration” seems like a real possibility.
 
Does anyone actually believe any of the critical electronics modules needed to keep these cars running will be available in 30 years? The only way to keep them running will be to heavily modify them with whatever technology exists at that time. An electric Blackwing “restoration” seems like a real possibility.
What is the failure mode for these electronics? I can think of capacitors leaking and solder fatigue. I'm no electronics tech, but they both seem like easy repairs with caps and solder that will always be available.

I have a couple of 32 year old Hondas with computer controlled engines. Part supply from Honda ran out on most parts about a decade ago. Getting parts has become tricky, but electronic components are probably the least concerning repair parts. They are exceptionally reliable (vs, say, a fuel pump) and inexpensive and available at junkyards.

Capacitor replacement kits are available on eBay for the ECM, but I doubt the replacements are as good as the ones Honda used. Someday I may replace the caps, but I've NEVER heard of or seen a Honda ECM go bad. I do have a working spare ECM I bought on Craigslist just in case.

There's also a computer under the dash - these are almost pocket items at the pick and pull - I probably have a half dozen. Never seen one go bad, but the Acura ones have more features so those are the ones I pull.

The speedometers actually are a weak spot - they're full of electronic chips, but I think the failure mode is solder fatigue. At any rate, I have a stash and swaping the circuit board on the back is an easy fix.

There's also a main relay that has solder fatigue issues that prevents starting on hot days (intermittent non start). Mine lasted 20 years before acting up. After a solder reflow 10 years ago it has been trouble free ever since (although I do keep a spare).

Unlike economy cars that are driven into the ground due to their almost zero value at 20 years old, I think most Blackwings will be well cared for. The ones that end up in the junkyard after an accident will surely have all their electronics harvested and stored inside the junkyard office. Barring an accident that totals it, I'm 100% confidemt mine will be on the road in 30 years (my actual concern is mag ride shockes and rubber suspension bushings - those have finite lives and will almost certainly need replacement within 30 years)
 
Sounds like you got it all worked out. My opinion is that we are heading into uncharted territory with ICE being replaced with EVs and a disposable car mentality by the auto makers; past performance may not guarantee future results. Your 32-year-old Honda may have had a half a dozen electronics modules, but modern cars have upwards of 30+. The biggest failure mechanism for ICs should be electrical discharge or short circuits or over-current due to a failure of a passive component. I would consider the shocks to be an electro-mechanical component that falls under the electronics category.

Anyway, this is a debate which is impossible to determine the outcome without waiting 30 years.
 
30 years!? Not sure I care about 30 years. I'll either be dead or suffering from Alzheimer's. Sadly, it won't be a concern.

Anyone watch Jackson Barrett or Mecum? Have you seen how popular and insanely priced 60's and 70's retro mods are? That will be your BW future IMHO.
 
Does anyone actually believe any of the critical electronics modules needed to keep these cars running will be available in 30 years? The only way to keep them running will be to heavily modify them with whatever technology exists at that time. An electric Blackwing “restoration” seems like a real possibility.
I’m 60 now, pretty sure I will be dead in 30 years so I don’t give a shit.
 
My suggestion, go the OEM route. When it comes to carbon fiber, you get what you pay for. GM has been manufacturing exposed carbon fiber pieces since 2009 with the ZR1 Corvette roof. Carbon fiber is extremely susceptible to UV radiation and heat. While you will see aftermarket exposed carbon fiber products turning yellow with exposure to the sun, you won't see that happening as much with OEM components.
Have dealers been a little more lenient when it comes to ordering CF parts for a car that wasn't originally specced with CF? Or is it still a deal-by-deal situation?
 
Have dealers been a little more lenient when it comes to ordering CF parts for a car that wasn't originally specced with CF? Or is it still a deal-by-deal situation?
There has never been any issue with ordering CF parts if you did not have a BW, even though that was rumored in the beginning.
 
A Cadillac executive told me in the beginning that if your BW did not come with CF 1/2 you could not order it, but somewhere along the way that went south...... IMHO if your car did not come with it, you don't get OEM CF, sorry.....
 
A Cadillac executive told me in the beginning that if your BW did not come with CF 1/2 you could not order it, but somewhere along the way that went south...... IMHO if your car did not come with it, you don't get OEM CF, sorry.....
No you’re not sorry.

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Finally got my splitter (PN 84432226) from my local dealer that I ordered in Dec 2022. I had been calling or going into the dealer about every 2 months. Two weeks ago they tracked it down and found out GM apparently shipped it in July to who knows where, but not to my dealer. The parts guy said the general manager would be involved and then GM shipped one out immediately. So GM has these parts sitting around, they just are not shipping them unless the right people are involved. The parts guy Joseph was amazing in tracking this down and making it happen. Then he honored the price on my quotation from Dec 2022. Lets just say it was significantly below dealer cost.

The color has the gold hue that matches the spoiler I got back in 2022. I've had the wickers for almost a year, so I'm good to go on the full install.

Splitter-in-Box.jpg
 
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Finally got my splitter (84432226) from my local dealer that I ordered in Dec 2022. I had been calling or going into the dealer about every 2 months. Two weeks ago they tracked it down and found out GM apparently shipped it in July to who knows where, but not to my dealer. The parts guy said the general manager would be involved and then GM shipped one out immediately. So GM has these parts sitting around, they just are not shipping them unless the right people are involved. The parts guy Joseph was amazing in tracking this down and making it happen. Then he honored the price on my quotation from Dec 2022. Lets just say it was significantly below dealer cost.

The color has the gold hue that matches the spoiler I got back in 2022.

Splitter-in-Box.jpg
curious, is it the same original part number or a new part number since they had to switch suppliers?
 
The PN is in the post, 84432226, and has not changed since my order in December 2022.
Thanks. Are you going to install it without the sides since those are on constraints and not available or do you have those already?
 
Thanks. Are you going to install it without the sides since those are on constraints and not available or do you have those already?
Sides? The rocker panels? I don’t want those. If you mean 84490400 and 84490401 I’ve had those for a long time.
 
Some information for anyone else considering a CT4 BW Dive plane/splitter upgrade. I wish I knew this before I did mine, but now I know I can pass it on to others and save you the effort and money. I at one point considered detaching the backing support from the OEM CF bumper and cutting the slots in my original non-CF bumper. But I didn't want to risk making a template and getting positioning of the support bracket wrong. So I spent the money to have the replacement CF bumper painted, and had the PPF and ceramic redone. But, here is what I found that makes me wish I had used the original bumper and slotted it. It turns out the non-CF bumper has an outline of the support bracket AND the four slots it uses. The fifth (outer) slot is already in the outside support bracket - it's identical to the CF bumper. And so the slot is already positioned. So if you had a bracket, you could cut the slots, attach it, and you would have the CF bumper using your original bumper. Even if you have to buy the whole bumper, it was only $400 MSRP from the local dealer. It's much less from the online dealers, but the shipping is more than the part. It's a very large box. I have pics of it further up the message thread. Here are photos of the CF bumper, and the original non-CF bumper I replaced on my car.
How difficult do you think the mounts would be to remove from the carbon pkg bumper? Hard to tell how they are attached. Was waiting on the Tapout mounts but they've been pushed back months, so thinking of ordering a cf bumper and removing the mounts and attaching them to my existing bumper and cutting the slots.
 
Removing the supports was simple. I mentioned it in the previous posts, but they are simple little tack welds (about 4 or 5) you can separate with a trim tool or thin blade like a stainless steel spatula. I reattached with the epoxy I mentioned in the posts, and I think they are held on better with that. I also think you could return the bumper cover after removing the supports to get the core deposit back. Keep the box, they want it returned in that. The box is really big, you'll need a pickup truck or van to carry it. Again, I kept mine because I had already had it painted, ppf, and ceramic coated so I stored it as a spare.

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