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CT5-V .

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Autozone had supercar on sale with 20% off and free shipping. Picked up 9qts for about $99 shipped. Not a killer deal but better than $14 a quart.
 
The sound is definitely from the top side of the engine toward the front right behind the throttle body. It sounds like a ticking valve. I was using a long screwdriver as a stethoscope and listening around when I noticed this sensor with some type of white sealant around it and what looks to be a missing bolt. From what I can tell it is an air pressure sensor and I think I read something about having to possibly clock their direction when doing a ported throttle body, which this car came with.
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I confirmed on my 5BW there is definitely a bolt that needs to be there and i see no white grease in that spot.

I would agree with everyone else who mentioned to change the oil yourself using M1 supercar. Alternatively, you could also ask for the invoice from the service department and see the part #s for the oil change. I don't think they would forge the paperwork. Cross reference the part # on this forum.

FWIW, I don't think you'd have less issues with a Tesla given their track run of quality control. Buying a CPO is simply extending your manufacturer warranty. Most dealers are not inspecting CPOs for hours on end, esp if everything looks good on the surface. They may not inspect them at all. I'm speculating, but this issue probably happened before trade in. Someone was playing mechanic and dropped the original bolt, instead of replacing it they slathered grease all over it to try to hold it in place.🤷🏻‍♂️

Either way, I'd point out the problem to the dealer and put it back on them to diagnose.
 
I concur that Tesla QC isn't probably even at GM levels, much less European cars.

However, I missed earlier the comment that the car has modifications. I'm kind of surprised that they CPO'd the car if it's not OE. Because if this is related at all to the aftermarket TB, then I'd expect them to deny a warranty repair. Kind of a catch-22.

I would start with that missing bolt and go from there. I wouldn't bother with the dealer until I eliminated the obvious (oil change, missing bolt, etc.) not because I don't trust them, but because I don't trust them. No, wait... :rolleyes:
 
I'll throw out an exhaust leak. Some can be quite loud when cold and quiet up as the metal expands. Either way, ticks are not fun. Whether lifter, bearing, or exhaust leaks. Good luck getting it squared away.
 
Exactly, I think when the dealership change the oil right before putting it for sale they didn't really pay attention to what they were putting in it.
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As in, they put the wrong weight oil in; whatever they had on "tap" on a hose they fill all the cars with. Wouldn't put it past a dealership, especially after the sales experience I had.
It was a mock shock meme. I do my own only changes on all my vehicles. And with the 5BW most dealers don’t see many and I suspect they put whatever oil they have into them.

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Iv heard 4g63’s which have notoriously loud lifters, which had head work/cam swaps done….. and even with the trash mitsu lifters not being bled, they were not as loud as your video.

It’s hard for me to believe that even putting in 0w20 or whatever eco trash oil they might have put in, to cause a tick that loud. Although thin oil does exacerbate lifter tick.

Rod knock usually sounds like it’s coming from the top as the noise echos in the cylinder. Rod Knock is more prevalent on rev up and rev down around 2500ish rpm. It could be Rod knock, but it would be extremely advanced

Keep an eye on your oil pressure. Hopefully it was just piss thin oil, maybe also not all the way filled.
 
I'm a former Porsche Master tech,been working on cars for over 25 years, mostly as a hobby. Certainly wasn't a rod knock, 99% sure it was just a lifter.
I agree. Im curious how much oil pressure was actually getting to the head to cause that bad of a tick if it was the lifters (easiest explanation)
 
Just ordered oil from Walmart online for $9.87 a quart for Mobil 1 supercar and $6.04 for PF64 AC Delco oil filter
 

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