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Oil Filters

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I'm not really thin skinned so someone ribbing me is fair game. Don
 
Talked to Race Ramps a few minutes ago.

When the phone person got through with the computer and spit out a lot of RRs, PPSs etc things became very expensive. Recommended a "Pit Stop" ramp along with an extender.

Pit Stop is over $3200 and the extender is $547. Not happening.

If and I say if I can lift the car with grooved "hockey puck", my term but intended for that purpose, not my build enough to put 3 or 4 layers of 2X10 that would work. Won't try that untll I can talk with the dealer's service manager. Suspect a very high lift would be needed as the wheels will droop some when they're suspended.

If I had to bet, none of this will work on my low slung Road Atlanta IMSA version. Don
 
I dont think Ive ever seen someone overthink or over analyze a simple situation more. Just pay the dealer to do your oil changes and move on if you dont hear back from NASA first.
Thanks for the wise ass remark NOT. Don
Edited to add, you're the first on my ignore list.
 
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My car is away getting PPF'd, ceramic, and tinted so I cannot look. So the filter and drain come out of the same, nice hole? That seems awfully convenient. I've got 2x8 6 foot long, 3/4 in rise every 15 inch wood ramps that I use for all the family's other vehicles including my '16 V3 and my kid's '10 V2. Hope they work equally well with the
4 BW
 
My car is away getting PPF'd, ceramic, and tinted so I cannot look. So the filter and drain come out of the same, nice hole? That seems awfully convenient. I've got 2x8 6 foot long, 3/4 in rise every 15 inch wood ramps that I use for all the family's other vehicles including my '16 V3 and my kid's '10 V2. Hope they work equally well with the
4 BW
Its worth getting a flex funnel since as soon as you unscrew the filter it dribbles down on the aluminum sub frame and can leave a but if a mess, phantom oil drips on your floor for the next week. I was pretty dilligent cleaning it up but the dealer, not so much.
 
Thanks for the wise ass remark NOT. Don
Edited to add, you're the first on my ignore list.
You already ignored a legit answer I gave to one of your many questions, questions that have been directly answered yet you keep asking.

Im amused to see that even after given the exact part numbers for ramps proven to work you went out and asked the people whose job it is to sell those ramps how much money you should give them.

I dont think you should be baking a cake, much less working on your own car but hey, best of luck.
 
Talked to Race Ramps a few minutes ago.

When the phone person got through with the computer and spit out a lot of RRs, PPSs etc things became very expensive. Recommended a "Pit Stop" ramp along with an extender.

Pit Stop is over $3200 and the extender is $547. Not happening.

If and I say if I can lift the car with grooved "hockey puck", my term but intended for that purpose, not my build enough to put 3 or 4 layers of 2X10 that would work. Won't try that untll I can talk with the dealer's service manager. Suspect a very high lift would be needed as the wheels will droop some when they're suspended.

If I had to bet, none of this will work on my low slung Road Atlanta IMSA version. Don
The Pit Stop has nothing to do with the approach angle if you actually look at their website. They're upselling you. It's just a higher/longer platform as far as I can tell.

Did you use their measurement guide? I find it nearly impossible to believe there aren't shorter options that would work. My car has the same carbon on it as yours does and it's really not that low. I've also seen plenty of pictures on the FB group of people lifting their carbon 1/carbon 2 cars with various lift pads in the pinch welds and a standard jack.
 
The Pit Stop has nothing to do with the approach angle if you actually look at their website. They're upselling you. It's just a higher/longer platform as far as I can tell.

Did you use their measurement guide? I find it nearly impossible to believe there aren't shorter options that would work. My car has the same carbon on it as yours does and it's really not that low. I've also seen plenty of pictures on the FB group of people lifting their carbon 1/carbon 2 cars with various lift pads in the pinch welds and a standard jack.
Yes, I did use the measurement procedure in Race Ramps website.

Are you using a ramp if so, which one? If not, how are you lifting the car up to get under it? Don
 
Just got off talking to corporate Delco. Isn't the first time that I've doubted what a customer service individual has said.

In this case, I got some filters from Summit Racing that they said were "Gold" labeled. They arrived and they appear to be the garden variety PF63 P/N 12731742 and the rep said that was the only filter specified for the Blackwing.

Use as you wish, I'm neither endorsing or rejecting what I heard. Don
 
Since you're running the UPF63r, you'll know the answer. Is that filter longer and if so does it hang low enough to be scraped off in a low clearance event? Thanks, Don
It is a tiny bit longer but as mentioned it is mounted horizontally so no issue.
 
Yeah, couple interesting takeaways worth considering. The thicker body is where the weight comes from, hence the heft.

More importantly for me though, the standard PF63, at least the part number in the manual, actually has MORE filtering surface area than the UPF63R and a nearly identical particle filtration rating, ~30 microns.

UPF63R (per your linked vid) - 45.5" x 2.75" = 121.125 sq in.
PF63 (part# 12707246) - 55" x 2.75" = 151.25 sq in.

These numbers came from a vid on the PF63 but the guy measured the entire width of the filter media @ 3.25" and in the UPF vid the guy measured between the endcaps which IMO is more accurate so I knocked .5" off the measured width of the PF63 for apples/apples.

View attachment 21734

Aside from the heavier body and higher bypass ratio on the UPF, the only other difference I can see is the thicker rubber base gasket. The filter media is also different but has the same micron rating as the media on the standard PF63 so no clear indication one is better. So clearly this filter is meant for higher pressure operations but whether or not that actually matters when the standard PF63 is good to a rated burst pressure of 253.8psi is for you to decide.

More importantly is whether it is actually a better a filter and not just a heavier duty filter and I dont really see the evidence for that.
So, nothing wrong with the PF63 but the UPF63R has been considered an upgrade for the LF4 engine for a while now. The folks from Tapout Tuning here on the forum recommend this filter and use it in all their builds. I have tried both filters and I just like the more beefed up UPF63R. I like the thicker gasket.

Screenshot 2023-09-14 at 9.01.44 PM.png
 
So, nothing wrong with the PF63 but the UPF63R has been considered an upgrade for the LF4 engine for a while now. The folks from Tapout Tuning here on the forum recommend this filter and use it in all their builds. I have tried both filters and I just like the more beefed up UPF63R. I like the thicker gasket.

View attachment 21763
Yeah thats all true and prior to the re-release of the PF-63 in 2020, these were legit benefits over the older PF-63E. But the current (well, technically recently replaced) PF-63 was released in 2020, after the UPF-63R, and is now nearly the same as UPF, including the higher pressures.

For example, the PF-63 is rated to a burst pressure of 253.8psi and the UPF-63R?

“burst-strength that is five times greater than normal engine oil operating pressures (as long as the normal engine oil operating pressure is not greater than 51psi)”

5 x 51psi = 255psi

And as already mentioned, the PF-63 has more filter surface area. So maybe a few years ago the UPF filter offered significant advantages over the spec filter but I dont see that being the case anymore.

Nothing wrong with peace of mind and if it ticks that box for you then keep going with it.
 

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