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CT4-V FLOOR JACK LIFT GUIDE - 4BW

Cadillac CT4-V model
This thread is great and super helpful! Big thanks to those that have contributed, and now I'm wondering if the ultimate evolution of it is to have solutions by use case.

For example, the needs for swapping brake pads or wheels one corner at a time look different than the needs to remove all 4 for cleaning/ coating/ rotating side to side.
  1. Best method and adapters for one-corner-at-a-time lifting
  2. Best method and adapters for all all four in the air with jackstands lifting
  3. Best method and adapters for QuickJacks

I know now what's required to safely adapt my quick jacks, but sometimes they're a pain and jack stands are better for access or quick hit jobs.

Maybe my real question here is simply is there a central spot on each side rail for a floor jack to then easily place jack stands at each corner?
 
RennStands work great on my 5BW. Would think they would work on a 4BW as well.
 
@mfbmike I'd like to see some close up pics on the quick jack contact points. Thank you!

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Front easy enough. Quickjack supplied Rubber block between contact patch and pinch weld. Make sure rubber block isn't interfering with rocker panel. Admittedly, the red pinch weld adapter in the guide seems like it would be best - on top of a rubber block, for extra clearance from the rocker.

1714152250843.png


In the rear, to the left of the orange arrows is a bracket. You can fit a block there and lift from there.

Since im not under the car right now, using photos from the supplied guide in this thread - which is amazing btw. These jack points have been discussed in great length in this thread and others.
 
Which adapter/head are you using? There's a bunch of options.
i use the Universal Crown/Castle Jack Pad. I bought some rubber sheet and cut them in circles to fit inside the crown. And I also use ZL1 Addons lift pads. You may need a different setup, but I can say the Rennstand concept works very well. Easy to setup, takes up no space to store. I have two low profile 3 ton floor jacks.
 
View attachment 25625\

Front easy enough. Quickjack supplied Rubber block between contact patch and pinch weld. Make sure rubber block isn't interfering with rocker panel. Admittedly, the red pinch weld adapter in the guide seems like it would be best - on top of a rubber block, for extra clearance from the rocker.

View attachment 25626

In the rear, to the left of the orange arrows is a bracket. You can fit a block there and lift from there.

Since im not under the car right now, using photos from the supplied guide in this thread - which is amazing btw. These jack points have been discussed in great length in this thread and others.
Thank you!
 
This thread is great and super helpful! Big thanks to those that have contributed, and now I'm wondering if the ultimate evolution of it is to have solutions by use case.

For example, the needs for swapping brake pads or wheels one corner at a time look different than the needs to remove all 4 for cleaning/ coating/ rotating side to side.
  1. Best method and adapters for one-corner-at-a-time lifting
  2. Best method and adapters for all all four in the air with jackstands lifting
  3. Best method and adapters for QuickJacks

I know now what's required to safely adapt my quick jacks, but sometimes they're a pain and jack stands are better for access or quick hit jobs.

Maybe my real question here is simply is there a central spot on each side rail for a floor jack to then easily place jack stands at each corner?
#2 is what I want to know.

I looked under the car and seems like there are some strong parts under the car to jack and place a jack stand in their designated spots.
 
I followed this same method using a quickjack 5000 SLX. Pinch welds up front with rubber blocks/pads and then rubber blocks on the rear suspension bracket. Took a few tries to make sure everything was lined up (always overly cautious lifting a car up for the first time), but once that was done, was up for a few hours for first fluid changes with no issues.

View attachment 25529
Have a pic of the contact locations by chance ? I have the same jack.
 
Although I purchased the recommended jack pads from this thread, I ended up pivoting and followed another method instead.

Some of you may have seen the other thread on how to adapt ZL1-style pads to 4V BWs with minor trimming. Someone else took the plunge and I followed in their footsteps.

I tried it yesterday with my QuickJack 5000SLX and tall blocks and it worked flawlessly. Here's my writeup with pics in that thread in case anyone wants to check it out.

If someone wants the adapters/ pads from the original post in this thread, I have mine and didn't end up using them. Cover shipping and kick me a few extra bucks and they're yours:

 
OP thanks for the guide. Handy for sure, especially with a 2 post lift or to just quickly lift a corner to change a wheel.

What about jackstands though? the jack points at each corner seem to only be large enough for the jack pad, so the jackstand would have to go elsewhere... Under the suspension?
 
OP thanks for the guide. Handy for sure, especially with a 2 post lift or to just quickly lift a corner to change a wheel.

What about jackstands though? the jack points at each corner seem to only be large enough for the jack pad, so the jackstand would have to go elsewhere... Under the suspension?

1722520874093.png


^^
rear - I have used the cradle brace area where the orange arrow points to with no issues so far - lift from pinch weld then lower onto the structural brace

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front - put some duct tape down so you don't scratch the surface up. Personally, I have only done this once up front, I typically just do wheel swaps. Hockey puck or a lift pad may also be a good idea here to distribute the load a bit

1722521671602.png
 

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