Can I get your opinions on my front rotors

[jodakid69]

This second shop is also recommending replacement and is quoting the same price. Pads are at 4mm, and "hotspots are worn into the brake disc. Heat spots will cause noise with new pads."

They are quoting labor as $472.50 and parts as $2697 (rotors 999 each and pad set 699), to replace front rotors and pads.

Maybe I am getting into stupid question territory but is it correct that I will need:

Rotor - Right

Rotor - Left

Front Brake Pad Set

Even if I pay $100 in shipping that brings my parts cost down to $1775, reducing my total by over $900

Thoughts?

I think you are correct on the online parts cost. You can get Front rotors (Left and Right) with shipping for around $1500 and the front pad kit (Left, Right, and cables) for $350.

Then Sign up for Online Service Manual access and download the install instructions for Brake Pad and Rotor install procedures. Then get a local car repair shop to install instead of a GM Dealer. Out the door for all should be around $2100. That is about $1000 less than what you are getting quoted from a GM dealer.

I am going to double check regarding the front brake pad kit info with my local dealer. I think the kit provides both left and right side pads (4 pads total) plus the cables - #85528936

 

[strohw]

Rockauto did have the fronts in stock earlier in the summer at $500-600ea. Looks like they only have 1 side in stock right now, but still at the same price. Perhaps they'll have more in stock by the time you need them.

If you don't track the car then you don't need the stock brake pads. You can get a set of the Power Stop Z26 series ceramic pads for $80. I ran these in the winter and the stopping power on the street feels identical to the factory pads.

 

[Neveready]

What’s the recommended bedding procedure for these brakes?

How To: PowerStop Track Day Break-In Procedure | PowerStop Brakes

Our mechanic shows you the PowerStop Track Day break-in procedure. This is required for all Track Day & Track Day Spec brakes.

www.powerstop.com

Here is a bed-in procedure, we don't have a specific bed-in procedure for black wings only for the CCBs which, IMO MIGHT BE too aggressive for your pads and difficult to find a straight road at 100mph.

You can try the link above procedure, make sure you don't activate the abs, and do not apply the parking brake or hold the brakes for more than a few seconds or the pad will leave an imprint on the rotors. If you did it properly, you'll have brake fade and possibly a little smoke and it will reek. Make sure you've done a full cool down process of at least 5 mins afterwards.

You can repeat this process if you'd like, until the rotors look even, you could increase the mph or the number of stops as well.

 

[rdollie]

Has anyone ever found replacement rotor rings for the 5BW (or the 4 BW for that matter)? I know the supposed benefits of a 2-piece setup but I didn't see rings when I had the V3 and haven't seen them so far for the 5 BW (hear Girodisc may have something soon?)

 

[Carguyshu]

Rock auto when they have parts in stock are by far the cheapest for the oems. Front pads were $338 and rears $223. Rotors were $373 each for the fronts and $170 each for the backs last time I ordered from them. Summit racing is not as low, but usually competitive especially if you have a 10% off & factor in free shipping. You don’t need to replace the pads until the wear sensor warning light comes on. The pads come with new sensors. It takes longer to take off the wheel than it does to replace the pads. I’m on set #4 right now (lots of track use). They are extremely easy to change. Front rotors should last 3-4 sets of pads, not one. What they are calling hot spotting is likely just uneven pad deposits that will burn off if you get things hot. It is unlikely you need rotors. Here’s what the pads look like when the wear sensors go off.

 

[PL69]

Has anyone ever found replacement rotor rings for the 5BW (or the 4 BW for that matter)? I know the supposed benefits of a 2-piece setup but I didn't see rings when I had the V3 and haven't seen them so far for the 5 BW (hear Girodisc may have something soon?)

The benifit of replacing rings only is a byproduct of having a rotor bolted to an aluminum hat with mechanical fasteners that permit the expension and contraction of the rotor with heat cycle, without the possibility to "move" the rotors would probably end up warped or crack prematurely.

 

[Seth]

Rock auto when they have parts in stock are by far the cheapest for the oems. Front pads were $338 and rears $223. Rotors were $373 each for the fronts and $170 each for the backs last time I ordered from them. Summit racing is not as low, but usually competitive especially if you have a 10% off & factor in free shipping. You don’t need to replace the pads until the wear sensor warning light comes on. The pads come with new sensors. It takes longer to take off the wheel than it does to replace the pads. I’m on set #4 right now (lots of track use). They are extremely easy to change. Front rotors should last 3-4 sets of pads, not one. What they are calling hot spotting is likely just uneven pad deposits that will burn off if you get things hot. It is unlikely you need rotors. Here’s what the pads look like when the wear sensors go off.

That’s where I’m at mentally with the rotors. I don’t see why they should be replaced given that they still have decent thickness and they’re not causing any brake vibrations. For future reference though was that the price for rotors on the 5 or the 4? I definitely would jump on them just to have if I see them at that price

 

[CBH]

If you've done any work on your own before, you can handle brakes. I've done it on every car I've owned that needed brakes, and its usually pretty straightforward. Shops likely make more money on brake jobs than any other work they do.

That's because they quote you a total for the job instead of an hourly rate. $500 for labor when they know it'll take an hour or less. Since you're doing it for the first time it'll take you longer than that, but it's still less than 1/2 day to do everything.

On a new car like this, it'll be even easier (nothing rusted and seized into place).

But first, I'd try the bedding procedure many say has fixed their problem.

Then I'd turn the existing rotors with new ceramic pads.

Only as a last resort do you really need to get new rotors. Zero risk trying the other things first.

 

[WaveMet-V]

Why not just go straight single piece iron rotor if you're not tracking? No need for a 2 piece, IMO.

 

[Jim2000]

Why not just go straight single piece iron rotor if you're not tracking? No need for a 2 piece, IMO.

I agree completely. It would greatly reduce the cost and give all of us a much longer wearing rotor.

 

[Seth]

Why not just go straight single piece iron rotor if you're not tracking? No need for a 2 piece, IMO.

Mostly bc I don’t know shit about brakes

Any recommendations?

 

[Carguyshu]

I agree completely. It would greatly reduce the cost and give all of us a much longer wearing rotor.

lol wut. how exactly does it become longer wearing somehow just by there not being an aluminum hub

 

[Carguyshu]

That’s where I’m at mentally with the rotors. I don’t see why they should be replaced given that they still have decent thickness and they’re not causing any brake vibrations. For future reference though was that the price for rotors on the 5 or the 4? I definitely would jump on them just to have if I see them at that price

that's the pricing on the 5. just wait until they come in stock again and buy a set to have around for when you need. same with tires. michelin makes a run of them every once in awhile and its better to have a spare set sitting there in case you need them and can't wait weeks or months for them to do another run.

just stick with the oem rotors. they are quite good.

 

[Jim2000]

that's the pricing on the 5. just wait until they come in stock again and buy a set to have around for when you need. same with tires. michelin makes a run of them every once in awhile and its better to have a spare set sitting there in case you need them and can't wait weeks or months for them to do another run.

just stick with the oem rotors. they are quite good.

The OEM rotors on my ATS-V were not good at all. They had to be replaced at 40k miles due to a vibration and not meeting specifications in regards to thickness. The rotors had been turned at 32k miles. I have had many sports cars and the Cadillac braking system wears quickly and is extremely expensive to replace. The OEM replacement rotors are inferior. After replacing both rotors and pads, 8k miles later I developed vibrations which required the rotors to be turned. The vibration went away and then returned a few thousand miles later. I did not track my car and I was never hard on the brakes. Also, ABS never kicked in. There are multiple people who have had problems, premature wear and vibration, with the braking system in the V cars.

 

[Slick Blackwings]

I just had to have my rotors/pads replaced 7000 miles slight vibration , I simply couldn’t even believe it dealer trying to tell me the rotors wore out! I believe if you’re too easy on the brakes on these cars, you develop some sort of a vibration whether pad deposit, or whatever so my mindset now use the brakes hard we’ll see what happens.

 

[Carguyshu]

The OEM rotors on my ATS-V were not good at all. They had to be replaced at 40k miles due to a vibration and not meeting specifications in regards to thickness. The rotors had been turned at 32k miles. I have had many sports cars and the Cadillac braking system wears quickly and is extremely expensive to replace. The OEM replacement rotors are inferior. After replacing both rotors and pads, 8k miles later I developed vibrations which required the rotors to be turned. The vibration went away and then returned a few thousand miles later. I did not track my car and I was never hard on the brakes. Also, ABS never kicked in. There are multiple people who have had problems, premature wear and vibration, with the braking system in the V cars.

If u think Cadillac brakes are expensive don’t try any German cars. The cost at dealer to replace brakes on a RS6 is over 14k. Those are the steels too not even ccb. The more aggressive the pad the faster it’s going to wear. 40k is pretty good for a performance car. The rotors on the BW are very good. The pads are very good for what their design target is. I could only go 2 laps on my rs6 before the brakes would overheat. Thrown everything at the bw and it just keeps going like a champ. Can drive daily with the car seat in all week then go to the track all weekend and only need to air down tires while pulling faster lap times vs cars that are a lot more expensive & significantly less practical that take a lot of modification to still not be as fast.

As mentioned previously uneven pad deposits are the vast majority of the time the reason for vibrations. Has nothing to do with the rotors of their quality. If you don’t burnish the brakes or push them from time to time this is more likely to occur.

 

[jodakid69]

Based on my experience, I completely agree with Carguyshu and a few others that have posted. There are two issues that some owners are experiencing. The first is uneven pad deposits on CT4V-BW rotors. The second is dealer service departments that are providing based information to owners. They can't really tell a customer that they have to go brake hard to get rid of deposits, then re-bed the brakes, probably with new pads. So their solution is to install new rotors since that approach does fix the problem. Of course, this is an expensive fix.

 

[sleepys4]

This second shop is also recommending replacement and is quoting the same price. Pads are at 4mm, and "hotspots are worn into the brake disc. Heat spots will cause noise with new pads."

They are quoting labor as $472.50 and parts as $2697 (rotors 999 each and pad set 699), to replace front rotors and pads.

Maybe I am getting into stupid question territory but is it correct that I will need:

Rotor - Right

Rotor - Left

Front Brake Pad Set

Even if I pay $100 in shipping that brings my parts cost down to $1775, reducing my total by over $900

Thoughts?

Granted I have done it 5-6 times now. But honestly save the money and you will get it done in less than 2 hours with basic basic tools. Hardest part is jacking up the front lol.

 

[Seth]

Granted I have done it 5-6 times now. But honestly save the money and you will get it done in less than 2 hours with basic basic tools. Hardest part is jacking up the front lol.

I found a DIY shop in Austin where you can rent a lift and you can also pay extra to have someone show you what to do, so I’ll prob do that the first time around

 

[Jim2000]

If u think Cadillac brakes are expensive don’t try any German cars. The cost at dealer to replace brakes on a RS6 is over 14k. Those are the steels too not even ccb. The more aggressive the pad the faster it’s going to wear. 40k is pretty good for a performance car. The rotors on the BW are very good. The pads are very good for what their design target is. I could only go 2 laps on my rs6 before the brakes would overheat. Thrown everything at the bw and it just keeps going like a champ. Can drive daily with the car seat in all week then go to the track all weekend and only need to air down tires while pulling faster lap times vs cars that are a lot more expensive & significantly less practical that take a lot of modification to still not be as fast.

As mentioned previously uneven pad deposits are the vast majority of the time the reason for vibrations. Has nothing to do with the rotors of their quality. If you don’t burnish the brakes or push them from time to time this is more likely to occur.

On a BMW M2, my computer said I had 58k miles left on the front brakes when I sold the car with 14k miles on it. No vibrations. Why are people having vibration problems on the Blackwings with less than 10k miles?