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Break in 6MT fluid change

This is the drain/fill procedure (I had to manually place the images and they became numbered, so the number sequence is correct but they are different by the number of images from the actual service document). The sealant for the drain and fill plugs called for is GM 19333512

Service Information


2022 Cadillac CT4 | CT4 Service Manual Korea, N America, Other IO 15283392 | Transmission | Manual Transmission - Tremec 6-Speed MG9 | Repair Instructions - On Vehicle | Document ID: 5876102

Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill
Draining Procedure
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle
  2. Place a drain pan under the vehicle.
  3. 1739812091051.png
  4. Disconnect the electrical connector.
  5. Remove the manual transmission fluid temperature sensor (1).
  6. Allow the oil to drain completely.
  7. Apply sealant to the manual transmission fluid temperature sensor (1). Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers
  8. Caution: Refer to Component Fastener Tightening Caution.
  9. Install the manual transmission fluid temperature sensor (1) and tighten. Fastener Specifications
  10. Connect the electrical connector.
Filling Procedure
  1. 1739812345551.png

  2. Disconnect the clip (1) retaining the cooler pipe to the transmission bracket.
  3. Reposition the cooler pipe to allow access to the transmission oil filler plug.
  4. Remove the transmission oil filler plug.
  5. 1739812384789.png



    Note: Transmission fluid level setting must be followed exactly as written or the transmission may be overfilled or under filled.
  6. For fluid recommendations, refer to Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers.
    Transmission fluid level MUST be 3.2 mm (1/8 inch)below (1) the transmission oil filler plug. This can be done by one of the following two methods:
    • Bend mechanics wire to 3.2 mm (1/8 inch) to check fluid level. Add or remove fluid as necessary.
    • Fill transmission until level with the bottom of the transmission oil filler plug hole, then remove 240 ml (8 ounces) of fluid.
  7. Apply sealant to the transmission oil filler plug (1). Adhesives, Fluids, Lubricants, and Sealers
  8. 1739812420783.png


    Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution.
  9. Install the transmission oil filler plug to the transmission and tighten. Fastener Specifications
  10. Inspect the clip for proper retention on the cooler line to the bracket. Replace the clip as necessary.
  11. Reconnect the clip (1) retaining the cooler pipe to the transmission bracket.
  12. Note: Ensure the clutch pedal is NOT depressed.
  13. Run the engine in Neutral for two minutes to allow the fluid to recirculate.
  14. Remove the transmission oil filler plug and verify the fluid level is 3.2 mm (1/8 inch) below the transmission oil filler plug hole. Add or remove transmission fluid as necessary.
  15. Install the transmission oil filler plug to the transmission and tighten. Fastener Specifications
  16. Lower the vehicle.
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I'm curious: The capacities I posted in #15 indicate trans only is 3.66 qt, but Total Capacity with Transmission Cooler and Differential Oil Cooler is 5.03 qt. Does this imply the trans and differential are intermixed in the same cooling system? That doesn't seem right since they both use different fluids, GM 19418501 for eLSD and GM 88861800 for the MT. Also, the capacities with and without cooler for the eLSD seem switched from expected.
1739813161975.png
 
This is interesting, "13. Run the engine in Neutral for two minutes to allow the fluid to recirculate." It's a gearbox, I've never done anything like this when changing the transmission fluid on my previous 6MT.
 
It could be to account for possible loss from the trans cooler lines when it drains that would fill when the system runs again.
 
It could be to account for possible loss from the trans cooler lines when it drains that would fill when the system runs again.
If so, I would think you would then need to fill it full and drain the 8oz after you run the engine.
 
From that picture in #4 it looks like the fill plug is perhaps not a standard bolt? Thanks for the info, @Dirkbg. I'm not going to be doing this anytime soon, but I do wonder what the torque specs are for those plastic bits like the level sensor.

Of course, the standard rule (not listed in the official instructions) is to always remove the fill plug before you drain the fluid. Just in case you can't get it out, better to learn that before all of the oil is gone.
 
I added the fastener specs and adhesives/sealers to the procedure posting.
 
How different is the procedure for the 5V transmission?
 
Figured it was a different transmission, right?
 
I only downloaded the specs for the 4BW because that's what I have. My guess is that it's the same for the 5. I paid for the 3-day subscription for ACDTDS and spent about a day and a half downloading as much as I thought I'd need for the future.
 
From that picture in #4 it looks like the fill plug is perhaps not a standard bolt? Thanks for the info, @Dirkbg. I'm not going to be doing this anytime soon, but I do wonder what the torque specs are for those plastic bits like the level sensor.

Of course, the standard rule (not listed in the official instructions) is to always remove the fill plug before you drain the fluid. Just in case you can't get it out, better to learn that before all of the oil is gone.
If I recall, the fill plug is just a 1/2 “ drive similar to the diff plugs.

There are no plastic plugs-both are metal. Just the connector for the temp sensor (there is no “level sensor”) is plastic, but you shouldn’t be wrenching on that at all.

This is an easy job. 45 mins maximum. From my experience the full fill and then removing 8oz is far simple than bending wire, hoping you it in square and then try to see really thin, runny dex3 on the wire-I found that damn near useless.
 
If I recall, the fill plug is just a 1/2 “ drive similar to the diff plugs.

There are no plastic plugs-both are metal. Just the connector for the temp sensor (there is no “level sensor”) is plastic, but you shouldn’t be wrenching on that at all.

This is an easy job. 45 mins maximum. From my experience the full fill and then removing 8oz is far simple than bending wire, hoping you it in square and then try to see really thin, runny dex3 on the wire-I found that damn near useless.
Yeah, my bad, those pictures aren't very accurate. I still stand by the rule that you remove the fill plug first.

Ah... (old man reminiscing) I remember the days of the Haynes manuals. Before digital photography, Internets, etc. when they had actual real pictures of actual real cars with instructions on how to fix stuff. No links and references to other manuals, it was all in one place. Of course, cars were much simpler then... :beer
 
Yes of course cracking the fill loose as step 1 is always best practice and common sense
 
If I recall, the fill plug is just a 1/2 “ drive similar to the diff plugs.

There are no plastic plugs-both are metal. Just the connector for the temp sensor (there is no “level sensor”) is plastic, but you shouldn’t be wrenching on that at all.

This is an easy job. 45 mins maximum. From my experience the full fill and then removing 8oz is far simple than bending wire, hoping you it in square and then try to see really thin, runny dex3 on the wire-I found that damn near useless.
Did you do the step where you run the engine and then recheck the level?
 
Did you do the step where you run the engine and then recheck the level?
I did. Probably kind of pointless in my opinion, but it only took five minutes, so why not… I think this is probably much more relevant for an automatic transmission change where the pump needs to circulate everything.
 
I did. Probably kind of pointless in my opinion, but it only took five minutes, so why not… I think this is probably much more relevant for an automatic transmission change where the pump needs to circulate everything.
How do you lift the car? My concern would be running the car off the ground.
 
How do you lift the car? My concern would be running the car off the ground.
I have a set of quick jacks. Why are you concerned to turn the car on off the ground?
 
I have a set of quick jacks. Why are you concerned to turn the car on off the ground?
My concern is running the engine on jack stands. More around vibration and stability.

I've been thinking about getting wheel cribs or quickjacks.
 
I did the transmission fluid change once on my 09 V at 30k miles. I used the GM 88861800 fluid which was repackaged Dexron III ATF. There were a ton of threads on this back in 2010. GM moved to a newer Dexron IV ATF and that was specifically not allowed in the manuals transmissions. Some different additive or something would be bad for it. So they released that part number above. That is probably why the service manual and owner's manual have what seems like different text.

The change on the 09 V wasn't hard. You did have to start the engine during the procedure to get fluid into the cooler. That made me a bit nervous starting the car while on jack stands. But it didn't move any when I started it. I used a suction gun to fill which took a while and was a bit messy.
 

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