Anderson Composites vs..

[KatyTxCT5V]

@mad1100 wow. Those many gaps being on top are tough to accept if it was my car. If they were on the bottom where I couldn’t seem them, then different story. I’m shocked that the body shop didn’t notice these before installing the piece as they are noticeable IMO. I don’t know Andersons policy, but like anything else, once installed it usually means it’s yours. Of course, now that you know they’re there, hard to forget.
Good luck either way.

 

[Sully]

Just had the Anderson Composites Carbon Fiber rear diffuser installed by a professional body shop. Overall, the piece looks great, but unfortunately the fitment wasn't perfect, which has left visible "panel" gaps on the upper portion, in the areas where the connecting tabs are. The body shop said they spent a ton of time trying to get it flush, but felt they couldn't without potentially damaging the part.

1. Should I be okay with this? It is bothering me, especially considering the Anderson Composite pieces were not cheap.
2. Any ideas on how to fill the gaps so that they don't draw the eye? The white LED reverse light also shines right through the gaps at night, which is not great.

Wow disappointing… if you end up just sticking with it instead of going through the remove/return process, you could look into a product called Sugru. It’s a moldable putty adhesive which sets in about 30min or so, and dries waterproof. I’ve used it in the past for body panel gaps (side rockers) and now using it for mocking up mounts for ALP laser system in my grill.

You could take the putty (maybe black) fill that gap, wipe it smooth and level (like you were filling an interior trim crack with caulking) and let it set. It will dry like a silicone rubber. It will fill the void and make it less sightly.

 

[mad1100]

Wow disappointing… if you end up just sticking with it instead of going through the remove/return process, you could look into a product called Sugru. It’s a moldable putty adhesive which sets in about 30min or so, and dries waterproof. I’ve used it in the past for body panel gaps (side rockers) and now using it for mocking up mounts for ALP laser system in my grill.

You could take the putty (maybe black) fill that gap, wipe it smooth and level (like you were filling an interior trim crack with caulking) and let it set. It will dry like a silicone rubber. It will fill the void and make it less sightly.

Thank you for the response and some great advice. Sugru was exactly the type of product I was hoping for and the black color is barley noticeable. Posting some photos of the end result.

 

[Sully]

Thank you for the response and some great advice. Sugru was exactly the type of product I was hoping for and the black color is barley noticeable. Posting some photos of the end result.

Excellent, glad it worked out. If you wanna take it a bit further you can hit the Sugru with Cerakote or a good rubber/vinyl protectant and make it shine a bit. Otherwise, I think the only one to notice will be you!

 

[basa]

Debating on going with OEM or the Anderson. Adding the 2 side deflectors, make the OEM one over $3,300

 

[rubberduck]

I originally wanted CF1 on my order but it was on constraint in 2022. The money was already spent in my mind. And at that time there were no aftermarket options. But the splitter and deflectors only set me back $2200. Took one year to get the splitter. The 5BW is a “modern classic,” GM at its best, and wanted to keep the appearance OEM.

 

[basa]

I originally wanted CF1 on my order but it was on constraint in 2022. The money was already spent in my mind. And at that time there were no aftermarket options. But the splitter and deflectors only set me back $2200. Took one year to get the splitter. The 5BW is a “modern classic,” GM at its best, and wanted to keep the appearance OEM.

Your last line is spot on. The price for the OEM splitter is fair, but almost 1k for the tiny deflectors is crazy.