NoirFrostV
Member
Can anyone explain to me the process for changing the springs on a ct5v bw? I’ve changed springs on other cars before but I’d like some insight before I start the job.
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0.7" lowered isn't exactly what I would call slammed. I'm very capable of driving around a low car without damage, etc. Nobody was going to be doing a calibration of the ride quality, it was mainly something to do maybe with headlights or whatever. According to some places that sell the springs there is no calibration needed. They set the cars up nice and high because most people just want to be able to plow straight into a parking lot or whatever and not have to think about it.I seriously doubt that anyone can currently recalibrate the incredibly sophisticated Magnaride (or Magneride) to accomodate a different spring rate not supplied by the factory. There is a guy frequently referred to on one of those other forums (I can't currently recall where) that could tune the system to allegedly perform better, but even that was still on the factory springs.
The system is really just about perfect now after 20+ years of refinement. I know that some of you kids like to slam your car down so that it looks cool, but you are going to end up really compromising the ride and handling of the car. This ain't a Civic.
0.7" lowered isn't exactly what I would call slammed. I'm very capable of driving around a low car without damage, etc.
Have you read through and found this: Arod221 Shadow Metallic build threadI didn't pick up on that (0.7) in the posts, sorry Nick. I was afraid that the OP was some kind of ricer-in-recovery that might do something horrible to his/her caddy.
I think the factory height is based on the need have enough clearance for snow chains, proper DOT bumper height, headlight aiming, etc. in addition to looks and handling characteristics.