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CT5-V Blackwing preignition / pinging

99sport

Seasoned Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2023
Messages
138
Location
So Cal
My blackwing has preignition knock (the marbles in a can sound that most of us haven't heard since the 70s or 80s). It doesn't happen all the time - it's only at wide open throttle under high load, and not every time I use WOT. I am convinced this is NOT normal as this is my second 5 Blackwing. The first 5 I owned NEVER did this under any circumstance, nor did the car I drove at Spring Mountian. On my current car, I noticed this phenomenon on the drive home from the dealer (with 3 miles on the car). I figured the dealer put 87 octane in it, but after running 5 tanks of 91 octane the problem has not gone away.

I had one of my hardcore race guy friends ride along, as I thought I was loosing my mind. He agreed - it's preignition of the type you get from low octane. So we went to a local gas station that sells 101 octane unleaded race gas (at $14/gal) and mixed that with what was in the tank for just over half 101 octane / half 91 octane. Problem is totally gone with what is probably about 96 octane in the tank. I need to run some more tanks of higher octane to confirm, but given the results of this one tank, it does seem to be classic preignition from gas that is too low in octane for the compression / boost level.

Here's my theory: The car is tuned for 93 octane, but all we can buy in California at the pump is 91. My car doesn't like to run on 91 for some reason (if I go out of state I'll try 93). Best case scenario, the knock sensor is bad, so the car doesn't realize there is 91 in the tank and runs the tuning map/curves for 93 octane, hence preignition knock. Worst case, there's some hot spot in the cylinder head or other defect internal to the engine that causes preignition in one cylinder. If that were the case, I don't think the dealer could ever figure it out (until the motor blows up at a track day). Alternatively, there might be a fueling problem in one injetor or one bank (a la Car and Driver engine failure). But high bandwidth O2 data might show a lean mixture on one bank.

Now the question is how to diagnosis this / get it fixed. It doesn't happen all the time, but the most consistent way to make this happen is WOT in 3rd gear at 5000 RPM. Unfortunately, that happens at 100mph plus, and I don't think the dealer is going to be able to repeatedly do 100+ MPH WOT runs while reading a scan tool to diagnosis this. Finding ANY stretch of road except for a race track that is long enough and empty enough to use WOT for more than a second or two is extremely difficult. So my thoughts are: Find a dyno tuner with experience with the LT4 that can pull out knock sensor data, timing, boost, and air/fuel ratio with a high end scan tool while on the dyno to try to figure out what is causing this. Once diagnosed, take it to the dealer to replace the affected parts. Alternatively, I see the Cosworth toolbox reports max boost. Anyone know if I can get a plot of knock, timing, and boost vs time out of the PDR via Cosworth toolbox (or some other tool)? This could also be used to confirm the ECU is (incorrectly) running the same timing and boost levels regardless of what octane fuel is in the tank.

Anyone know how the ECM in the LT4 manages lower octane fuels (again, the best we can buy at the pump here is 91 octane)? What happens if you accidentally put 87? Does the computer pull timing and boost, and, if so, how does it know 87 is in the tank?
 
You took a brand new car with just 3 miles on it to over 100 mph with WOT?

Geez. I guess you're not a fan of following the manufacturer's break-in requirements. Hey it's your car, that is your right, it just caught my eye.

I concur, it's going to be a challenge to get the dealer to diagnose this. I think if you had a bad knock sensor, it would set a code eventually. There is more than one sensor, so the others should notice it, especially if you can hear it over the noise of the exhaust and road noise. Maybe it's something else, besides engine knock?
 
The stock PCM should adjust the timing for any fuel down to 87 to keep the engine safe. Unless, you've tuned it. I have a 2.0L turbo car that is dyno tuned that absolutely MUST have 93. My recommendation is try a little "octane" boost in a can and see if it helps. Don't use the entire can!!!! Estimate how much you need to get up around 93.
 
The first thing I would suspect is you got bad gas. Try fuel from another source.

The Blackwings have Wideband O2 sensors and fast ECU’s. They can adjust to wide range of octane on the fly. They are not ‘tuned for 93’.

If your audible pinging went away with higher octane fuel, you may still be pulling timing but not so much that you can hear it.

You can try the dealer to look for codes, but your best bet is to find a good speed shop that can read your STFT, LTFT’s (Short term and long term fuel trims) and knock sensors.
 
Coincidencentally, my first car did that too but I didn't know what it was ( sound of marbles is the best way I described it). Im still in break on period now so hopefully I'll be able to report back in a month or so.

Octane boosters may only raise it 8 points (.8 octane) and some such as Boostane Professional say 23 points for $30 a can. In theory adding 1 can to your tank of 91, your at 93.3~ octane). In CA (91octane is $5.50 a gal). that's like paying $6.04 a gal...as crazy as it sounds that's actually worth avoiding knock/detonation.

sunoco gt260 100 octane is about $85 for 5 gal.
17 gal tank, to get to 93 your spending an additional $65 a tank. In CA (91octane is $5.50 a gal). that's like paying $8.11 a gal.
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This thread both concerns me and makes me feel better since it's not just my car.

My 5 arrived the day after I had Achilles Tendon surgery on 11/3 (my luck), so I've never driven it myself. I picked it up about 4 hours away the following week with the help of two friends who drove it back while I was in the passenger seat. With about 5 miles on it, I heard the knocking even at low and medium throttle, which the dealer thought might be bad gas, but I was concerned because all other modern cars I've driven don't have audible knock because they adjust before you can hear it.

I continued to hear it on and off on the drive home, and we used most of the tank of gas. I filled up right before getting home. A few days later, a different friend of mine came by to see it and we took it for a spin, now on new gas, and I heard no knocking at all, albeit it was only a 20 minute drive.

The car sits in my garage taunting me as I can't drive it until my foot heals. I can't wait to put some miles on it and see if the problem is gone for good or not.

Regardless, it's always comforting to know you're not the only one, even of it's a club you don't want to be a part of.
 
OP and others who may reject the 'bad gas' theory. There was recently a sting of sorts here in Florida. About 10 out of the 50 tested stations were selling 87 octane as 93 octane. I'm paranoid enough I only get fuel for mine from Costco or one of two stations I know the 'car crowd' frequents.
 
If the problem disappeared when you increased the octane, that would convince me it's an octane based problem.

I recommend trying one tank of fuel from each of the different brand gas stations in your area. And each time you can hear audible knock, LET OFF THE GAS IMMEDIATELY.
 
I’ve seen the guys hook up a monitor that records data as you drive, which they use to diagnose those intermittent problems. Not sure if it works on a Blackwing, but worth asking about.

The usual procedure for a difficult repair is for the technician to work with an engineer at GM by phone. If that doesn’t work after a few tries, the dealer can request a field engineer to come out to the dealership and diagnose it hands on. From what I’ve seen, those guys are generally pretty good.
 
Filled bad gas into a Bonneville once. It totally drove me down a rabbit hole to diagnose and fix. So yeah, crap gas is out there probably not like it used to be but I am sure you can still find it!
 
Also I know of ZERO GM dealerships that prep or PDI the car with 93 octane. Doesn't matter what the vehicle is the Dealerships send the kids over to the closest gas station and 87 octane no if and or butts!
 
Also I know of ZERO GM dealerships that prep or PDI the car with 93 octane. Doesn't matter what the vehicle is the Dealerships send the kids over to the closest gas station and 87 octane no if and or butts!
Sewell gives you your Blackwing with a full tank of 93.

My C6 GS and my SS 1LE were both delivered with 93. Those were the same dealer in Orlando.
 
Sewell gives you your Blackwing with a full tank of 93.

My C6 GS and my SS 1LE were both delivered with 93. Those were the same dealer in Orlando.
Sewell and MacMulkin and probably a few other but out of 4000k total GMC dealerships I will bet 20qty or less!
 
Also I know of ZERO GM dealerships that prep or PDI the car with 93 octane. Doesn't matter what the vehicle is the Dealerships send the kids over to the closest gas station and 87 octane no if and or butts!
That is so f-ing shitty. Sell a car that expensive and save maybe $15 to risk damage. So low brow.
 
I'm just over 1000 miles. I've bought gas at at least 5 different stations (locations, brands, etc). I really doubt it is bad gas from 5 different stations.

Last weekend I took the car out to recreate the problem with the fuel mixed down to lower octane, but what passes for rain around here made it impossible to use WOT. I lit the tires up at 80 on the freeway in 4th gear at half throttle and got the car a little sideways, so I decided to wait for another day.

This weekend has been dry, so I tried again. I diluted the tank down to what I think is about 93.5 octane, and it pings less than it did with 91. With 91 it pinged between 5000 rpm to redline at WOT (but never in 1st - not enough load on the engine I presume, or maybe the ECU dials back the power to prevent the car from obliterating the tires with the extra torque multiplication). Now, with about 93.5 octane, it is fine from 5 to 6000 RPM, but pings pretty consistently from 6000 RPM to redline in 3rd and sometimes in 2nd (its not possible to use WOT and 6000 RPM in 4th as that's approaching 150mph)

Next step is to run the tank down near empty and try 101 octane again and prove the pinging goes away and the last "fix" with race gas wasn't a fluke. Then I might try experimenting with octane boosters. I do think I'll find a dyno tuner with LT4 experience to pull air/fuel, boost, timing, etc. Ideally, I can tell the dealer something along the lines of "the left bank is lean at WOT at X conditions" since I don't think they can do multiple 100+mph runs to figure this out. Also, the longer I wait, the more likely it is GM releases a TSB for this condition.

I have a track day scheduled for the 30th of Dec. I might go and run 101 octane race gas, but I'm leaning towards canceling - I really don't want my engine replaced under warranty.

As a comparison, when I was at spring mountain, I banged the 5 into the rev limiter in third every single lap just before turn 3 on the east bowl as my clutch leg was sore (too lazy to shift to 4th and then immediately shift back to 3rd). It pulled to redline (and the rev limiter)in 3rd at WOT 20 or 30 times with absolutely no drama, so (unless they run race gas) there definitely is something wrong with this car.
 
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The first thing I would suspect is you got bad gas. Try fuel from another source.

The Blackwings have Wideband O2 sensors and fast ECU’s. They can adjust to wide range of octane on the fly. They are not ‘tuned for 93’.

If your audible pinging went away with higher octane fuel, you may still be pulling timing but not so much that you can hear it.

You can try the dealer to look for codes, but your best bet is to find a good speed shop that can read your STFT, LTFT’s (Short term and long term fuel trims) and knock sensors.
What would fuel trim tell? That the ECU thinks the car is running lean (or rich or normal)?
 
@99sport, keep us in the loop on what you find. Perhaps it's time to drop it off at the dealer and let them sort it out. Last thing you need is for them to put the blame of any damage on you.
 
I doubt there would be a TSB forthcoming because I haven’t heard of this problem in the LT4.

Most likely there is something wrong with your build specifically.

If this was happening to me, I would not track the car until resolved. I would locate a reputable tuner shop ASAP and get some logs done. Really surprised that amount of audible pinging isn’t setting a CEL. The OEM knock sensors are Uber sensitive for exactly issues like this.
 

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