5VBW Nick
Seasoned Member
Well, I finally had the time and weather to install my Corsa cat-back exhaust this past weekend, and I wanted to share some info I feel is important regarding the installation. The install itself isn't anything too difficult, but some parts of the instructions need to be clarified, some parts need to be highlighted to ensure a smooth install. I'll try to keep it to the point, but these are my thoughts as a former Porsche Master Tech and car guy that has been wrenching for 30 years, mostly for hobby.
Critical tools:
Torque wrench - you 100% need this for torquing the exhaust clamps otherwise you will under or over tighten them guaranteed. This will either cause a leak or damage to the exhaust, so don't skip using one.
The other VERY critical tool was an exhaust hanger removal tool. I purchased mine on Amazon for $14. Never used one before, but would be a pain without it.
First things, lay out the exhaust the way it will be finally assembled. There are a lot of parts since you cannot ship a 12' long exhaust through UPS, so make sure you get everything organized. Having a lift is MUCH better of course, but if you are working off the floor, have a good set of jack stands and wheel-chocks to keep everything safe.
Next, read the instructions thoroughly before starting, maybe even the day before, to let it soak in. It's basic, but there are a lot of steps, and orienting pipes, clamps, etc. Be sure to separate out the pipe clamps because there are several sizes and you don't want to use the wrong one in the wrong spot.
I did 99% of the installation by myself, my wife helped with the stock exhaust removal at the last step, but that was it. I recommend a $89 tower stand from Harbor Freight to assist holding things where you want; it was priceless to have. This only applies to being on a lift, otherwise a couple extra jack stands will help.
The valves: This is the part everyone worries about and have discussed endlessly due to errors with check engine lights, etc. It's actually VERY simple, but you have to mind the details to get it right.
When you turn the car off, have the exhaust in the loud mode, V-Mode, or whatever holds the valves 100% open. When you turn the car off, look in the tailpipes containing the valves and you can see very easily that the valve is horizontal (open). If the car is off, and the valve is open, you are good to go. I did not unhook the battery, I did not need any special scan-tool or anything. (sorry no photo, but it is terribly obvious when you look in)
There is a step that involves removing the nuts holding the rear-most exhaust hangers. My 3/8" ratchet would not budge them, I had to get a 1/2" breaker bar and extension with a u-joint adapter to get at it, but several of these bolts used were installed with thread-lock of some type.
One step that is not mentioned in the Corsa instructions involves the rear splitter. I have the carbon fiber one, and when removing the stock exhaust, it is a super-tight fit to get the actuator valves past the splitter w/o damaging it. I recommend removing the screws along the bottom-middle of the splitter (T15 torx I think?) and let it have some movement so you don't get hung up on it.
After that, it's just start putting it together starting at the front and working your way to the back. The instructions explicitly tell you how much overlap each pipe section requires, so measure accurately and mark with a Sharpie to get it just right. Doing this will ensure that all 5 sections end up in the right place and it doesn't rub, doesn't hang out the back too far, etc.
This photo is after it was completed and the center brace was installed, but you can see how things fit nicely and line up well. Use stands to hold up the middle while you bolt the front pipes on and try to keep things centered.
VERY IMPORTANT: Leave all clamps just snug until the very end. Tighten enough that you can just barely rotate or slide the pipes and make adjustments. Line up with your Sharpie marks to get started and it should stay fairly close to the correct position.
One of the next steps is removing the valve actuators from the old exhaust. When doing so, get out your trusty Sharpie and label them "D" for driver's side and "P" for passenger. They have to go back on the same way. When you pull them off, there is a weird little spring, just keep it oriented the same way as it was when it came out. Mine actually stayed stuck to the actuator and made it easy.
When you install it, make sure the valve on the Corsa exhaust is also in the 100% open position.
When you are inserting the actuator and spring into the new valve, you will see what when it is lined up, the holes in the actuator and the stainless bracket do not line up correctly, which was a tad confusing at first (photo):
THIS IS CORRECT! The spring actually has a little tension when it is installed, so you have to hold it down in place (against the stainless bracket) and rotate the actuator until the holes line up. Carefully install one bolt at a time until all three are started, then tighten to proper torque spec (89 inch lbs I think?)
When it comes to putting all of these random pipes and clamps together, there is a LOT of room for adjustment and twisting/turning of them. The main thing to takeaway from the instructions, is that when you snug things up, have the part of the exhaust hangers that go through the rubber holders be horizontal. Also, the small, flat brace that says "Corsa" has to also be horizontal (level). See photos:
After this, you will find that the support stand is priceless for pushing up on the connection between the two mufflers and adjusting up as high as you can without having the actuators hit anything and keeping proper clearances.
Once everything is "roughed in", then go to the front and start tightening everything to 45 ft. lbs (61 Nm). Check your Sharpie marks and orient the bolts on the clamps up out of the way of any lines, heatshields, etc. The instructions tell you exactly which direction all clamps should face. My only gripe is the clamps on the exhaust tips are kind of big and clunky, but you don't really see them when it's on the ground.
Pro-tip: I spray painted the pipes that slide inside the tips with high-temp flat black paint so that the shiny parts wouldn't show within the black tips.
Spend a bit of time rotating the last two pipes off each muffler until the spacing it JUST right. You will have to fiddle around for a while, but you there is a lot of adjustment, and once you get it correct, no only will it look good, but it will stay that way since everything bolts together so solidly.
After a drive, re-torque all fasteners (after the exhaust has cooled).
SEE POST #2 for the rest.
Critical tools:
Torque wrench - you 100% need this for torquing the exhaust clamps otherwise you will under or over tighten them guaranteed. This will either cause a leak or damage to the exhaust, so don't skip using one.
The other VERY critical tool was an exhaust hanger removal tool. I purchased mine on Amazon for $14. Never used one before, but would be a pain without it.
First things, lay out the exhaust the way it will be finally assembled. There are a lot of parts since you cannot ship a 12' long exhaust through UPS, so make sure you get everything organized. Having a lift is MUCH better of course, but if you are working off the floor, have a good set of jack stands and wheel-chocks to keep everything safe.
Next, read the instructions thoroughly before starting, maybe even the day before, to let it soak in. It's basic, but there are a lot of steps, and orienting pipes, clamps, etc. Be sure to separate out the pipe clamps because there are several sizes and you don't want to use the wrong one in the wrong spot.
I did 99% of the installation by myself, my wife helped with the stock exhaust removal at the last step, but that was it. I recommend a $89 tower stand from Harbor Freight to assist holding things where you want; it was priceless to have. This only applies to being on a lift, otherwise a couple extra jack stands will help.
The valves: This is the part everyone worries about and have discussed endlessly due to errors with check engine lights, etc. It's actually VERY simple, but you have to mind the details to get it right.
When you turn the car off, have the exhaust in the loud mode, V-Mode, or whatever holds the valves 100% open. When you turn the car off, look in the tailpipes containing the valves and you can see very easily that the valve is horizontal (open). If the car is off, and the valve is open, you are good to go. I did not unhook the battery, I did not need any special scan-tool or anything. (sorry no photo, but it is terribly obvious when you look in)
There is a step that involves removing the nuts holding the rear-most exhaust hangers. My 3/8" ratchet would not budge them, I had to get a 1/2" breaker bar and extension with a u-joint adapter to get at it, but several of these bolts used were installed with thread-lock of some type.
One step that is not mentioned in the Corsa instructions involves the rear splitter. I have the carbon fiber one, and when removing the stock exhaust, it is a super-tight fit to get the actuator valves past the splitter w/o damaging it. I recommend removing the screws along the bottom-middle of the splitter (T15 torx I think?) and let it have some movement so you don't get hung up on it.
After that, it's just start putting it together starting at the front and working your way to the back. The instructions explicitly tell you how much overlap each pipe section requires, so measure accurately and mark with a Sharpie to get it just right. Doing this will ensure that all 5 sections end up in the right place and it doesn't rub, doesn't hang out the back too far, etc.
This photo is after it was completed and the center brace was installed, but you can see how things fit nicely and line up well. Use stands to hold up the middle while you bolt the front pipes on and try to keep things centered.
VERY IMPORTANT: Leave all clamps just snug until the very end. Tighten enough that you can just barely rotate or slide the pipes and make adjustments. Line up with your Sharpie marks to get started and it should stay fairly close to the correct position.
One of the next steps is removing the valve actuators from the old exhaust. When doing so, get out your trusty Sharpie and label them "D" for driver's side and "P" for passenger. They have to go back on the same way. When you pull them off, there is a weird little spring, just keep it oriented the same way as it was when it came out. Mine actually stayed stuck to the actuator and made it easy.
When you install it, make sure the valve on the Corsa exhaust is also in the 100% open position.
When you are inserting the actuator and spring into the new valve, you will see what when it is lined up, the holes in the actuator and the stainless bracket do not line up correctly, which was a tad confusing at first (photo):
THIS IS CORRECT! The spring actually has a little tension when it is installed, so you have to hold it down in place (against the stainless bracket) and rotate the actuator until the holes line up. Carefully install one bolt at a time until all three are started, then tighten to proper torque spec (89 inch lbs I think?)
When it comes to putting all of these random pipes and clamps together, there is a LOT of room for adjustment and twisting/turning of them. The main thing to takeaway from the instructions, is that when you snug things up, have the part of the exhaust hangers that go through the rubber holders be horizontal. Also, the small, flat brace that says "Corsa" has to also be horizontal (level). See photos:
After this, you will find that the support stand is priceless for pushing up on the connection between the two mufflers and adjusting up as high as you can without having the actuators hit anything and keeping proper clearances.
Once everything is "roughed in", then go to the front and start tightening everything to 45 ft. lbs (61 Nm). Check your Sharpie marks and orient the bolts on the clamps up out of the way of any lines, heatshields, etc. The instructions tell you exactly which direction all clamps should face. My only gripe is the clamps on the exhaust tips are kind of big and clunky, but you don't really see them when it's on the ground.
Pro-tip: I spray painted the pipes that slide inside the tips with high-temp flat black paint so that the shiny parts wouldn't show within the black tips.
Spend a bit of time rotating the last two pipes off each muffler until the spacing it JUST right. You will have to fiddle around for a while, but you there is a lot of adjustment, and once you get it correct, no only will it look good, but it will stay that way since everything bolts together so solidly.
After a drive, re-torque all fasteners (after the exhaust has cooled).
SEE POST #2 for the rest.
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