Recent content by Mbar

Hi there, I was wondering if anybody knows about 'off the shelf' roll cage / half cage for the 4BW? As the speeds are getting higher at the track, I'm starting to be worried about stock seats and 3 point belt. Might be time for half cage and race seats. Thanks

I got OEM from Rock Auto. Some people will argue that Girodisc for the fronts is a better option.

Did anybody replace their rear rotors on 4BW. I jacked up the car today only to find out that the access to both 19mm rear caliper bolts is really challenging. Does anybody have a trick or tool up their sleeve ? PS- front rotors replacement was very simple with no issues.

Followed the instructions in this thread. Big success! Thank you !

Tosh Those pins are a real pain to punch. Almost like you need to lift the front of the car loosen the camber bolts and find the perfect position to punch them. HOWEVER, in my humble opinion there’s no need to remove them. It only provides an additional 0.1-0.2 of neg camber. -2.5 is good...

I think we all need to take pads/brake reviews with a grain of salt. Which track are we talking about, the weather and driver level and style? I had serious problems with stock pads at Summit Point but no issues at Spring MT. Was it because of the track? Or maybe because I didn’t have enough...

No need for cutout in the BW. Just tuck the cable away

No need to touch the 'top hats'. You just need to adjust the camber bolts by loosening the lower nut slightly and removing the top nut and banging out the bolt. Now....here's the problem....there is NO freaking way to know how much is -2.0 If you max the camber it will be -2.5 , if you go the...

My dear mechanic and good friend just did a fluid bleed using a service tool / diagnostic mode. He did not go with disconnecting the battery and doing old fashioned 2 men job like last time. My 4BW dash is a Xmas tree with all possible error codes and the car is on limp mode . I'm so screwed...

Just replaced my air filter. Not going to lie…it was a big pain in the ass! As mentioned before, don’t take the screws out completely. Don’t forget that there is a screw in the middle. You will have to cut the ‘zip tie’ that holds the electrical sensor harness+ disconnect both sensors to get...

Knocking that pin at the strut tower only adds 0.1-0.2 front camber. Your pics show some serious wear after not too many runs. I’m am not a tier pro, but either your toe at the front is messed up or you are pinching your turns too much and produce too much understeer that chunks the fronts. Are...

Do y Do you have a picture with your alignment specs? Which track are you driving on? At what level group are you driving? Do you know your lap time? At what traction / stability level setting are you driving? 35 hot with the stock tiers is a good target. If your alignment is ok, the. It...

I’ve been using NLS at the track many times. It’s really ideal between 3rd to 4th. Not using it for other shifts. You MUST be full throttle and shift right before redline.

The instructor told me they run everything OEM with track alignment. But, remember - Sprint Mountain is a ‘low’ speed technical track that isn’t so hard on brakes.

I depends on so many variables, such as run group, car, track, weather, tiers, braking style. If you are more advanced driver and reaching the braking zone at 145mph vs 135mph, there’s a huge difference. For me- stock pads didn’t cut it. For most people , it’s enough.